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Although a 3" 20 gauge sabot slug through a rifled barrel does make for a good deer round where you can't legally use a rifle.

I think that was the whole idea.

I think it was made 3.5" to keep them out of normal 20 ga guns. I could be wrong about that.

The welded crimp can be reloaded, but it will likely leave a hole in the middle. Unless you trim it. Depending on what you're loading, it may not be a problem.

Are they paper?

I'd shoot most of them, but keep a box or two on the shelf for good. Of course, I'd shoot them on occasions when it seemd right, not just blow them on a couple rounds of clays.

Aha! Thanks

Howdy!

Just wondering if anyone has any insight into using 20/28 in the 16 ga. I ask purely out of curiosity, as I have other powders I use for the 16, and I have 20 ga's for the 20/28.

What ...

I tilt the chrony on its side so the sensors aren't looking straight up. I use chopsticks in place of the metal screen supports, that way if I hit one accidentally, I won't mess anything up. I have ...

Take the rem209's. At the worst, you can find someone to trade with.
Any primer is better than no primer.

You'll find a lot more guys who load slugs over at the casting site.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php
They seem a bit more... adventurous, but they may have some data points for you.

If you're concerned about which primer it is, save them for target loads.
If the crimps are loose, just push them open with pliers.

I've always used a marlin 60 for coons. Buck seems like way overkill to me--it's just a coon. Try #4 shot and see what happens.

That was fast...

I use a pear of needle nose pliers and gently squeeze the hull below the crimp to force the shot up and start pushing the crimp open. Then I grab a fold and pull it open. Pretty easy and doesn't sma ...

Oddly enough, so did I!

Way back in the day all hulls had paper basewads and we picked them up. I believe it was Lyman that published instructions on how to dry them. That being said I pitch the wet Federals too.

The inst ...