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< 16ga. General Discussion ~ Stock repair for 16 ga 1100 |
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Posted:
Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:42 pm
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Joined: 08 Dec 2010
Posts: 32
Location: East TN
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Looking for a little help... I am looking for someone a few of you might recommend to repair my 1100 stock. It has a moderate scratch and a small chip where the bottom of the end of the stock meets the butt plate. I am not opposed to stock and fore end replacement but I am not sure what that would cost. I called Remington about replacement furniture but the gentleman I talked to was very little help. Geographically, I am in NE Tennessee if anyone knows somebody in this area. Any help would be appreciated. |
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Posted:
Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:54 pm
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Member
Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 1498
Location: the Moosehorn
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without pics I cant make a recomendation. If you want to have all the wood refinished I recomend Sycamore Hill in Victor ,NY the owners name is Frank Valone his work is superb. |
_________________ ALWAYS wear the safety glasses
If you take Cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like Prunes than Rhubarb does ----G.M/ |
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Posted:
Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:08 pm
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Member
Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 9464
Location: Amarillo, Texas
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Posted:
Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:06 pm
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Joined: 08 Dec 2010
Posts: 32
Location: East TN
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Skeettx- that is sound advice. There current picks on eBay has one that is similar in color but has a scratch or what looks lie a scratch on it. There are some beautiful ones that won't match the current fore end. I will call the gentlemen in NY to talk it over and continue the search for something that might have a better chance to match. |
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Posted:
Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:33 pm
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Joined: 31 Dec 2009
Posts: 61
Location: Salina, KS
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Posted:
Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:54 pm
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Member
Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 81
Location: Tygh Valley, OR
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If the gentleman in NY is not available to help. Contact me. I provide this service as a full time occupation. |
_________________ Life is too short to hunt with an ugly gun. |
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Posted:
Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:41 pm
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Member
Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida
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I notice the way the word "furniture" is, in apparent pretense of knowledge, occasionally flung around in describing the wood parts of guns. No offense, but in gunmaking, the term "furniture" has been around for a long time, and has a definite meaning, having nothing per se to do with the wooden buttstock or forend. It's a British gunmakers term for the visible functional small parts of a gun or rifle such as the toplever, triggerguard, safety button, forend release lever, forend iron, floor plate of a bolt-action rifle, grip cap, buttplate, etc. "Furniture" are the "furnishings", the "trimmings", or decorative attachments, if you will, of a gun or rifle. They are usually blued or plated, and often contrast with the finish of the frame (action/receiver) and wood.
http://www.hallowellco.com/abbrevia.htm#F
Thanks and Best Regards |
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Posted:
Wed Jan 22, 2014 9:00 am
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Joined: 08 Dec 2010
Posts: 32
Location: East TN
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Yes, I was flinging the term "furniture" and my wife does confirm that I like to think I am knowledgeable. Thanks for educating me. I take no offense and love to learn history behind all things gun and hunting related. |
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Posted:
Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:30 pm
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Member
Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 6535
Location: massachusetts
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Standard grade Remington 1100 shotguns aren't intended to be maintained as safe queens. They are utilitarian hunting guns designed and manufactured to be carried and shot a lot under tough field conditions. They serve the purpose very well IMO--at least mine all have.
The RPK plastic Remington stock wood finish holds up well to regular use. It is tough to do close matching spot repairs on, but not difficult to spot repair and then refinish overall. So I would not suggest scraping the stock unless the wood is structurally damaged beyond repair. Doing so is wasteful IMO.
A small chip out of the wood at the toe can be filled w/ a paste of epoxy or resin mixed w/ walnut dust, contoured to match by careful sanding, then stained dark to mask the repair with pantone pens of the right shade. A scratch in the wood can sometimes be steamed and polished out or carefully filled and polished level. The repair can also be masked with pantone pens and lightly and evenly buffed to blend in after the original stock finish is lightly sanded out over all w/ 300 grit wet or dry paper to ready it for an evenly blown on coat of polyurethane from an aerosol can. The repairs can be hard to spot, and the results can be pretty hard to distinguish from the original finish. I've done this in the past a number of times with excellent results. |
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