16ga.com ~ View topic

Member Joined: 01 Dec 2006 Posts: 524

Okay-i went back intending to buy but since the gun was on consignment, he had to check with the seller to see if it was alright for me to take it to my smith-he called me later and said the seller agreed that was alright. Now, the gun is in stellar shape except for the outside of the bbls. I will attempt to describe:

1. It is obviuos someone tried to do an amateurish and bad attempt at re-bluing

2. After the sloppy reblue at some point it was allowed to rust a bit in random areas.

3. Then there was an attempt (successful) to remove the rust (no deep pitting. In that effort the sloppy reblue looks even sloppier.

4. Then they aalowed a bit of rust to occurr again down toward the chamber areas.

If I buy, I will take this gun directly to smith for bbl polish and reblue and if advised a bore polish too. No screws are buggered.

A bit of rust on trigger guard: It will cost me 300.00 bucks for reblue and 85.00 bucks per bore for interior polish so I will immediately have to put 500 smackers into this gun to make it right. It was originally priced at 1300 and I talked the guy down to 1000. When all is said and done, the gun will be worth 1500 smackers at least to me. Will this all be worth it in your opinions? Or, should I continue searching? The gun has 26" bbls and is nice and light. I have been searching for a 16GA sterly for years. On the internet they all seem to cost at least 1500 bucks in decent shape. I am I on track??`

Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 58 Location: Northeast

Be sure to check out the barrel length and the chokes. The gun might have been a 28" or 30", cut back to 26" when that length was in great vogue (which would greatly reduce the current value of the gun). You can get a so-called factory letter that would indicate the original gun configuration, but that will take a month or more and you don't have the time. The barrels should be exactly 26", usually right on length but no more than +/- ~1/16". Looking at the muzzle end, is there a noticeable gap between the barrel walls? Usually they touch or almost touch, a large gap can indicate barrels that have been cut back. If you have a bore micrometer, measure the LENGTH of the chokes. Fox generally used tapered chokes. The Fox full chokes usually measure about 3.5-4" long. IC chokes will be about 2" long. Anything shorter than those lengths might again indicate barrels that have been shortened. Finally, have the chokes been opened excessively by a previous owner? You can always get tight chokes relieved but there isn't any good way to put choke back in a barrel(s) that have very little choke right now. Since you seem to be knowledgeable about shotguns, I'm sure I don't have to remind you about "ringing" the barrels which can indicate a loose rib. That is a definite possiblity in light of the amateur barrel rebluing work that's been already done. I write about these considerations at length because you are paying almost a collector's price for the gun, and shortened barrels will effectively remove it from the collector category. Hope this info helps. Good luck! Silvers

Member Joined: 01 Dec 2006 Posts: 524

Thank you very much-Yes, I rang the bbls and they have exquisite ring to them. Measured the bbls at exactly 26" too. Looked at muzzle end becasue I was suspicious of cutting too-saw no evidence. Will measure chokes tomorrow when I'm at the smith. Should I take some 0000 steel wool and oil to the bbls before I bring it in for reblue? I really want to arrest any possible rust immediately until I save the money up for reblue and all. I have the money now but want to do anything I can to save as well. should I take the steel wool to the trgger guard and everywhere I see possible rust?
One thing I noticed is that these bores are fairly thin walled compared to some I have seen. Also noticed in the receiver that one of the firing pin holes is ever so slightly puckered around its perimeter - issue? the other is not at all but nice and flat. The wood on the gun is great-just a little hones wear and definitely original. thats just it, the gun is so mechanically tight otherwise I wouldve walked by now for the other issues. Basically, it looks like maybe just one time someone took it out in the rain and forgot to towel it off for a few day then discovered it and said "oh sh^%t!!". Then made an attempt to remove the rust and did for the most part. But in the process left the already amateur blue job even worse. Inside the splinter forend the case colors are 100% on the metal. Inside the receiver not bad. Underside maybe 20%. Inside maybe 20%. Trigger guard appears to be original blue unless those were case colored too. This is the shooter of my dreams if it doesnt have any deal killer stuff. And, I won't mind sinking some $$$ in it at all. I won't ever re-case color though just to expensive. So what is the best way to protect receiver metal as I will not reblue there. Steel wool? Or, should I have the smith polish it? then fastidiously maintain?

Thanks again-any ideas appreciated.

Member Joined: 25 Jul 2006 Posts: 781

Stuff you probably already know:

Look very closely at the hook for any signs of being peened.

A good oiling will stop the current rust until you get it to a smith.

Rust blue, not caustic...

Jeff