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double vision
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 6:27 am  Reply with quote
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I'm just delving into reloading 2 1/2" hulls and so far so good!

Anyway, the next step will be making my own shorties, and I'm wondering if they need to be skived or is it enough just to cut them and load.

Thanks in advance.
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Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 7:24 am  Reply with quote
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It has been my experience that if you crimp unskived hulls with a 6 point, things go well.

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double vision
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:32 am  Reply with quote
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Mark, thanks! That's what I was hoping to hear.
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:25 am  Reply with quote
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Dave,

I tried skiving. Don't like it. Found no benefit. Won't do it again.

First, it's difficult and time consuming without the right tool. The necessary tool would be tapered, or better yet something like an inverted form of pencil sharpener or other rotating cutter held at an angle while the hull is rotated, or maybe the cutter is rotated relative to the hull, its rotation axis tilted relative to the hull axis to produce the "skive". I really would like to see how the manufacturers skive hulls. Tools commonly available to the hobbyist are often of the "sandpaper" or bonded abrasive type, and they don't do a good job on hull material without using a fast speed. Even then, abrading away the material causes a lot of heat and can melt and smear material faster than it can be removed. Those tools don't last long either, as the cutting area is just one little band about the inside diameter of the hull. The vast majority of the bonded abrasive is "unemployed".

Machining the relatively soft but tough plastic typical to shotshell hulls requires some sort of cutting action. I've tried a nice sharp tapered pipe reamer, and it works better and certainly lasts longer, but it is still a putzy operation.

The real questions the hand-loader should ask are: Why are hulls skived? and Do I need skiving? I believe the purpose of skiving is to help some plastic wad units feed into hulls with some automatic loading machines used by some ammo manufacturers. However, one can still often find fired factory hulls that were not skived. So who knows for sure -- not me. I don't believe skiving has anything to do with crimping, not even in roll crimiping, as I have never seen a factory roll crimped hull that had been skived. In my own adventures I skived because I thought it would help in pie-crimping new plastic hulls, because I had heard as much from the guy selling the tool. Skiving did not help my crimps, and since I do not have an unattended automated loading factory, I also have no trouble feeding wads into hulls. Therefore I don't skive anymore.

Cheers!
Tony
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double vision
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:15 am  Reply with quote
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Tony, thanks! I appreciate your thoughts.

You're approaching my sensibility level. Wink

Dave
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Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:56 am  Reply with quote
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Here is a bit more under the heading of trivial info.

IF you must skive hulls, the best thing to use is a tapered reamer, right hand cut, left hand flute, with about a 20 degree included angle.

You only need to skive maybe 3/16” ..............maybe.

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putz463
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 2:26 am  Reply with quote
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I load 2.5" for a couple older guns, 5/8oz summer target loads, no filler needed and practically no recoil. Have found no need to skive. After cutting to length with Byrdog's trimmer they load as normal with some washers on the platten as a short kit. Only extra step is I add a washer in the PreCrimp for "new" previously uncrimped hulls. The slightly deeper PC seems to help then with the initial crimp then no extra washer moving forward. FWIW, I use the MEC OEM Spindex tool, works fine.

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fn16ga
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:54 am  Reply with quote
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Dave , I never skive any of my cut down hulls and they crimp great.
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double vision
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:02 am  Reply with quote
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Thanks, Mark!

I have been amazed at how easy and perfect my first 2 1/2" loads have turned out. I first reloaded the flat of once-fired RST's using the SG16 wad and Green Dot. Then I picked up 500 of the red, primed Cheddites and I couldn't stop loading until they were all loaded!

I have a ton of the once fired Herter's hulls, so I'm just thinking ahead and I wanted to get the skivvy on skivving to prevent my skivvies from getting stretched.
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byrdog
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:52 am  Reply with quote
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If you must skiv use a 3 blade 15 degree beveling router bit in a cordless drill ,takes only a second.

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Brewster11
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:54 am  Reply with quote



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Skiving makes a very nice seal for the crimp but the downside is after a few firings, the skiving tears away leaving a ragged edge that must be trimmed off.

B.
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 1:02 pm  Reply with quote
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Dave -- I think I might need to start skiving my skivvies if I don't lose this beer gut. Need a more gradual lead-in. Wink

Tony
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Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:16 pm  Reply with quote
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Dave, I got the idea a while back when I checked Federal 16 gauge hulls and I found that they were not skived.

Glad it worked for you too.

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Byron Whitlock
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:03 pm  Reply with quote



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Dave, when I saw you post it got my attention because I had just ordered a trimmer from byrdog and it was info that I needed as well.
When i got the tool in the mail the other day I set it for 21/2" shells and immediately cut down a box of R-P hulls that were about to go in the trash because the crimps were splitting to the point that I used an overshot card and then some glue on the top of the crimp to keep it closed!
I was able to trim a couple hundred hull while watching a ball game on TV and didn't even need a drill to turn the tool!
The real reason for ordering the tool was some clear Cheddite hulls that I ordered from BP were a little on the long side and crimping them resulted in extra fat shells that had to be pushed in to my LC Smith and would not even go in my Model 12!
That problem has been solved!

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double vision
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:09 pm  Reply with quote
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Byron Whitlock wrote:
Dave, when I saw you post it got my attention because I had just ordered a trimmer from byrdog and it was info that I needed as well.
When i got the tool in the mail the other day I set it for 21/2" shells and immediately cut down a box of R-P hulls that were about to go in the trash because the crimps were splitting to the point that I used an overshot card and then some glue on the top of the crimp to keep it closed!
I was able to trim a couple hundred hull while watching a ball game on TV and didn't even need a drill to turn the tool!
The real reason for ordering the tool was some clear Cheddite hulls that I ordered from BP were a little on the long side and crimping them resulted in extra fat shells that had to be pushed in to my LC Smith and would not even go in my Model 12!
That problem has been solved!


Byron, that sounds great! Mine should be coming along soon. I have a huge batch of RGL hulls that are at the trim or pitch state. Some of my crimps look like my Christmas present wrap jobs when I was a kid. They aren't much better now. (the presents)

It seems like a short RGL hull would work well for 3/4 oz loads.
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