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DanLee
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 5:13 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 601
Location: Virginia

I have the Russian cranker. It works pretty well on paper hulls but leaves them sort of squared off. I have a MEC 9000 and use the final taper station to make the roll-crimped hulls a bit prettier.
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John Singer
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 6:12 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 398
Location: Rochester, MN

I picked up a couple of boxes of 2 1/2" 16 gauge RST shells with roll crimps (Cheddite Plastic Hulls.

The crimp area is as ugly as homemade sin after firing.

However, they reload very well and roll crimp well using just the standard crimp station on my MEC reloader.

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8mmFan
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 5:15 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 17 Mar 2007
Posts: 203

Thanks to every one of you suave, roll-crimping 16'rs.

I am ordering the Precision Reloading roll crimper. If it works I'll eBay the BPI one(s). I may also order Byrdog's trimmer, and try the Hartin crimp, although it seems like it'd be a poorly sealed option with a lot less resistance to abuse and/or moisture...

Why I didn't think of just using some sort of clamp to hold the hull I'll never know.

GREAT TIPS, guys. Thanks for sharing the info. After I get a few done I'll report back on the progress.

8mmFan
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 8:17 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 01 Dec 2005
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Location: Minnesota and Florida

Ripley, Ellen Louise
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 8:49 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 01 Dec 2005
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Location: Minnesota and Florida

I had one of the 16 gauge roll crimpers from Precision Reloading. Indeed they are something like a very early Lyman, having 3 or 4 ramps, I can't remember how many as I haven't seen it lately because I gave it to robp, who also seems to get great results with it. The Lymans I like the most are the later ones, that have a sort of stamped/dimpled disk trapped in the crimper behind its center hub which is threaded into a housing that holds the drive shaft that is chucked in your hand drill or whatever. This disk has 6 small smooth, polished "bumps". My 12 and 20 gauge Lymans are built this way -- very smooth and polished inside -- the rounded bumps make them bi-directional, for what that's worth (not much). My 10 gauge Lyman is older, I believe. It looks similar to my 12 and 20 from the outside, but has the ramps, just like the one from Precision. These are single direction crimpers, as the sharp edge of the ramps will tear up the hull if rotated the "wrong way" -- can't remember which is the "right way", but I think it is clockwise when looked at from the drill attach end -- i.e. the direction used to tighten a screw with a normal right-hand-thread. I gave it away, reluctantly, because I got a 16 gauge roll crimper from GAEP that I liked ever so slightly better. Both are good tools.

I have another GAEP in 24 gauge. I have one of those BPI single-pin jobs for 28's. I don't use it much. Not my favorite. I use an old very small Craftsman bench drill press -- the kind where you strap in your old 1/4 inch hand drill. Usually I use a MEC SuperSizer to hold the shell. The SuperSizer is kind of an expensive way to hold the shell, but if you've already got one with the proper collet (I change collets to whatever I need), it's the cat's meow, so use it. A lot of times it is sufficient to hold the hull by hand on a flat surface. Big shells mean more torque, so I really need a shell holder for the 10 gauge. One could use a grippy rubber or rubber-studded glove. Using a drill press is nice because you can control the crimp process so well, and you can set the stop on the drill press to achieve re-loads of very uniform height. Somewhere on this site there is a photo or two of my set-up.

Roll On!
Tony
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8mmFan
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:00 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 17 Mar 2007
Posts: 203

Thanks Tony. Much appreciated.
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Brewster11
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 5:18 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1301
Location: Western WA

Roll crimp is outstanding solution for 2 1/2" non toxic loads because it provides capacity of 2 3/4" hulls in 2 1/2 in.

Will shortly have holy grail of 2 1/2" loads to report on, 1 1/8 oz of ITX, using roll crimp as it won't fit with star crimp, currently still undergoing testing.

Had TERRIBLE results with BPI tool (anybody want one? It might make good candle snuffer), and excellent crimps with Precision tool.

We are seeing only one firing per roll crimp, too much distortion after firing. Hartin crimps have similar capacity potential as roll crimp but our chrono data showed VERY poor consistency.

FYI, we're finding that the SG16 Short wad is superlative for 2 1/2" lead loads!!

B.
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duckdup
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 6:15 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 12 Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Location: West-central Missouri

Brewster11, is that ITX 10 or 13?

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An ounce of fives, the smell of nitro in paper hulls, wet gundog, and Hoppe's #9...
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Brewster11
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:54 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1301
Location: Western WA

Quote:
Brewster11, is that ITX 10 or 13?

ITX 10

B.
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Brewster11
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:49 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1301
Location: Western WA

...and after trying Federal, Rem, Win, Cheddite, Fiocchi hulls, the very cleanest, easiest, and most repeatable roll crimps came from once-fired Herters hulls. Yes, they have Cheddite headstamps, but the plastic seems softer and more resilient than the red Cheddites.
Thankfully I have a bunch of them.

B.
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Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:22 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT

I kinda like the Hartin idea. Never tried it but I will now!!

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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 8:55 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 01 Dec 2005
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Location: Minnesota and Florida

The Hartin crimp is a good choice to have available, DC37, as it is inexpensive (no special tools) and easy, but it's best on previously factory-loaded 2 3/4 inch hulls with good crimp memory that have subsequently been trimmed to 2 9/16". Trying it with new, primed, short hulls gives results that are not as good -- at least that's my experience. I love it on trimmed RGL's, some of which I load with the Spred-R device -- just Hartin crimp right over the Spred-R, no overshot card needed, and it produces a great-looking load that is immediately identifiable as a spreader.

Hey, I didn't think you had any short-chambered guns!

Cheers!
Tony
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3birddogs
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:16 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Sep 2011
Posts: 567
Location: wheeling, wv

I am now only loading 2 1/2" 16 ga shells--and Bryd Dog's tool is wonderful. I think I could cut down 100+ shells in 10 min. I cut down the Herters/cheddite hulls that most are pitching, and they reload several times.
It is far easier to fold crimp, and have no problems using the plastic crimp starter on my MEC 600, usually use the 6 fold, but 8 works fine to.
Roll crimps look great, but just more work and expense

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Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:36 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT

I have a 1916 vintage Model 12 in 16 gauge with the 2 9/16" chamber.

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Mark
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 12:39 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 01 Dec 2005
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Location: Minnesota and Florida

Hey Wieman -- yeah, you JNW -- I've been waiting . . . Where are my 10 more bonus points??? Come on!

Tony Wink
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