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<  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading  ~  Lite strikes and reloads
Montana16
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:52 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Location: Eastern Washington

Question about reloads and lite strikes.

I have a Fox 16 Sterlingworth. Never has any problems digesting factory ammo. I have been reloading Herters (Cheddite) hulls with Winchester 209 primers. About once a round of skeet or trap, I get a lite strike. It happens in either barrel. When it happens, I wait awhile, then remove the shell, put it in the other barrel and fire with no problem.

I don't think it is an issue with the firing pins as I have had the gun checked out by a qualified gunsmith. When the lite strike happens, it is just that, a partial indentation but not enough to ignite the primer.

I reload with a MEC 8567 Grabber. Could it be something to do with the reloading process that is seating the primer too deeply? The components? Many variables, welcome your thoughts.
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old colonel
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:24 pm  Reply with quote
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It could be the shells or the gun.


Carefully compare the shells with light strikes to those from those which fired.

Look for differences in primer depth, rim thickness, and also look for any bowing or cupping on the shells.

Consider using a different primer, slight almost imperceptible (to me) differences can cause this and can be resolved by simply using different primers.

If no differences appear in the shells then look to the gun. When was it last stripped and cleaned?

If you are not comfortable with doing it yourself, send it to an experienced double gun guy. You would be amazed how much crude can build up in an action. I experienced a failure to fire issue with a browning O/U that was solved by cleaning it.

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duckdup
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:46 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 12 Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Location: West-central Missouri

Try Cheddite or Fiocchi primers. I think they are .001 inch wider and may not seat as deeply as the Win 209. The Herter's have a Cheddite pri,er to start with...

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Montana16
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:30 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Location: Eastern Washington

Thanks duckdup. I have been using the following receipe from the yahoo 16 gauge reloading group:

Cheddite Hull
7/8 ounce shot
18 gr Green Dot
DR-16 Wad
Win 209 Primer

I didn't see any receipes that replace the Win 209 Primer with a Cheddite Primer (keeping the DR16 wad and Green Dot). Does anybody have a receipe?
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putz463
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 3:41 am  Reply with quote
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old colonel wrote:
Carefully compare the shells with light strikes to those from those which fired.

Look for differences in primer depth, rim thickness, and also look for any bowing or cupping on the shells.


IMO, this is worth looking at. If unaware how to look for these symptoms, take a known straight edge (rule, shank of a screwdriver, etc) and run across the base of the shell while looking at a light source. quarantining the dud's helps cut to the chase. Some of my 11-48's are notorious for dishing in the base of shells and if using inconsistent pressure (sometimes pull down/seat a little light/heavy) while seating the primers in these dished hulls the gap (in the strongly seated primers) can cause what appears as a light strike.

Possible that barrel has more headspace that the other? A little ball, smaller than a BB, of Modeling Clay on the back of a shell then closed in the action can give an indication of headspace. A piece of Scotch tape over the MC helps prevent it from flowing into the firing pin hole and sticking to the breach face.

Good luck with it,

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byrdog
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:34 am  Reply with quote
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Use Ched primers in Ched hulls W209 is to small a dia. these two primers have the same strength.

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Ohio Wirehair
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:17 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 24 Jul 2016
Posts: 546
Location: Ohio

If you use Rio primers and 15.5 grns of Green Dot you'll have a very nice efficient light recoiling load and save a little powder to boot. I concur with others, winchester primers just don't do well in Euro hulls. I keep a brick of Rios for worn primer pockets as well.
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WyoChukar
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:19 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Jul 2015
Posts: 2124
Location: Hudson,Wy

Back in the 90's I had this problem with CCI primers. Win was seldom a problem and Federals always popped. You may have a "hard" batch of primers. Like others said, try different primers and see if it solves the problem.

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Little Creek
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:55 am  Reply with quote
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I have a Fox 16 ga that started with light primer strikes on factory ammo several years ago. I took the stock off and soaked the action in acetone for a few hours, let it dry and lubed it lightly. End of problem.

I also recently had a French Guild gun in 16 gauge that suddenly started doing the same thing, first on one barrel then the other. I sent it to a 'smith and he found a broken mainspring on the left. Also, the sear on the right was not allowing the gun to cock fully. Adjust sear. End of problem.
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Montana16
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2019 11:19 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Posts: 110
Location: Eastern Washington

Lots of good advice on swapping with different primers. Anyone have tested recipes with the components I am using:

Cheddite Hulls
DR-16 wads
Green Dot (xx grains)
Primer: ?

Not seeing any combinations like this on the 16 gauge reloading spreadsheet.
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Brewster11
PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2019 7:22 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1301
Location: Western WA

Quote:
Could it be something to do with the reloading process that is seating the primer too deeply?

Another possibility is that the MEC resizer is flattening down the rim of the hull excessively, allowing the hull to drop too far in the chamber. The MEC resizer can unscrew after usage, and can mash down the rim. The resizer should be tightened up periodically so that a nickel can fit underneath as it bottoms out.

Just an idea. Good Luck,

B.
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