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wahoo
PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:49 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 22 Jan 2015
Posts: 336

So Iím fitting new wood onto my 1947 model Browning 16ga A5. I have noticed that when the new forearm is installed, the barrel extends about 1.5mm further outside the rcvr. The non-blued portion of bbl is now peeking out at the front of rcvr. Perhaps this wonít effect function, but I donít like it that way, and want bbl/rcvr mating to remain as original. I figured out that the cause is due to the new forearm inlet having too much wood removed at the front half where the bbl ring butts up too. This spot should be stopping the bblís forward movement sooner. It should be a simple fix by installing some kind of shim material into the forearm to takeup the little bit that is too short. Iím thinking something like a metal flat washer glued down where the bbl ring meets the forearm wood. It needs to be 3 cm in dia., and 1-1.25mm thick. Any suggestions on what I might use? I suppose I could go with something other than metal. Maybe make it from something plastic that wonít crack or break. I also could glass in that small amount but it would be laborious to get squared up maybe.

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1929 Thomas Bland 16ga SxS 28"
1947 Browning A5 16ga 28"
1948 BRNO 16ga SxS 27.5"
1949 Stevens 530 16ga SxS 28"
1950 Stevens 311A 12ga SxS 30"
1952 BRNO 12ga SxS 28.25"
1963 Superposed O/U 12ga 27"
1968 V Bernardelli SxS 12ga 28"
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skeettx
PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:12 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Amarillo, Texas

3 cm is 1.1811 inch

1mm is 0.0393701 inch

I would try the simple fix first

o-rings for Remington 1100

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Parts-Barrel-Seals-Ring-Remington/dp/B07MMPNZB2/ref=lp_16413611_1_10?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1575238548&sr=1-10

Mike

p.s. was your gun originally a short chamber gun converted to 2 3/4?
That is one of the signs that this was done.

https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=79647


Last edited by skeettx on Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:32 pm; edited 2 times in total

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dannypratt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:25 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 21 Dec 2005
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Location: Napoleon, MI

Another great option would be a fiber type fender washer from your local hardware (they should have them in the fastener section) also, oversized nylon washer would be good too, or possibly even neoprene....I'd steer clear of a metal washer, could smash things up..

And you are correct in your opinion that it may cause issues if the barrel doesnt return to the same position as the original forearm. This will cause the gun to "time out" in its function of feeding and ejecting. It can cause a very bad jam in recoil operated guns, and sometimes a fairly dangerous one too.

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-Danny Pratt
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John Singer
PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 5:04 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 269
Location: Rochester, MN

As Danny pointed out, the forearm of a Browning Auto5 is critical to maintaining the "headspace" of the firearm. The headspace is the distance between the bolt when the gun is in battery and whatever prevents the cartridge from moving forward in the chamber. Headspace is very important to the proper functioning and safety of your gun.

The aesthetics that you describe may be an indication that the headspace is incorrect or it may be correct and the aesthetics are secondary to the function and safety.

Proceed carefully as you install this new forearm. Make sure the gun functions properly and safely with it and any modifications you make to that forearm.

Whatever you install as a "shim" to reset the proper headspace should be solid and not compress or wear over time.

A felt fender washer or Remington o-ring are temporary fixes that will likely fail as the gun is used.

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pbeaver
PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 8:04 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 08 Nov 2007
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Location: Indianapolis, IN

Acraglass?
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putz463
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 3:28 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Oct 2007
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Location: West MI

https://www.mcmaster.com/shims

https://www.mcmaster.com/washers

Is it at all possible the mag tube has loosened? or gunk preventing the mag tube end cap from not seating/threading completely?

Best of luck with it....

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John Singer
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 3:57 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 269
Location: Rochester, MN

As I think about the OP, here is a way to observe for excessive headspace.

I hope I can communicate this properly via this forum.

You state that there is 1.5 mm of the unblued barrel visible when the new forearm is installed. With the forearm installed, and the bolt in battery, look at the bolt charging handle. Does it contact the forward edge of the ejection port of the receiver? If it does, then the headspace is likely excessive. I would not fire the gun in that condition.

You are correct in that you should shim it to reestablish the headspace.

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fn16ga
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 4:21 am  Reply with quote
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Wahoo , As you probably already know the issue is that you are using a forearm that was made for a 2 3/4" gun and it is letting barrel move to far forward . The only problem I can see with that ( as far as function goes )is if the gun has not been converted to 2 3/4" the ejection port has not been lengthened and the bolt handle could slam against the forward section of the ejection port causing damage to the receiver .

You are on the right track , the wood in the forearm where the barrel ring contacts it needs to be built up some how by just shy of a quarter inch . I have one that has a brass ring / washer that someone made that is the same diameter as the diameter of the mag tube on the inside (lose fit) and the same dia. as the wood of the forearm on the outside . It was just in there loose when I received the gun , which worked . But I was afraid that it might bind and cause damage so I epoxied to the forearm . It has worked fine so far.

The other option is to try and find a good forearm that was made for a 2 9/16" gun. I have found a couple on ebay in the past , but that could take some time and alot of looking.
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oldog
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:05 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 22 Feb 2019
Posts: 49
Location: United States

Teflon ring spacer

https://www.mcmaster.com/shims

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Pop Pop
PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:06 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Mar 2018
Posts: 2
Location: SW Pennsylvania

Someone on ebay recently was selling a set of 3 brass shim washers which (supposedly) would tighten barrel fit for a Model 12. Diameter may be adequate for what you need.
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wahoo
PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 7:55 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 22 Jan 2015
Posts: 336

Thanks for all the replies of advice. In reading through, I see that some addiíl details might clarify my circumstance.
1. Barrel is a factory 2 3/4Ē chamber.
2. I have a perfectly fine original forearm, that when installed, none of the silver un-blued portion of bbl shows. Itís only when the new forearm installed does this occur.

I was thinking that a steel shim such as I first thought of, might be too harsh, i.e. less shock absorption than the wood only contact, so Iím leaning towards something that is a little more forgiving, yet does not loose its dimensions over time and use. I will explore the options suggested above. I wonder how delrin would hold up. I think brass might be good too.

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1929 Thomas Bland 16ga SxS 28"
1947 Browning A5 16ga 28"
1948 BRNO 16ga SxS 27.5"
1949 Stevens 530 16ga SxS 28"
1950 Stevens 311A 12ga SxS 30"
1952 BRNO 12ga SxS 28.25"
1963 Superposed O/U 12ga 27"
1968 V Bernardelli SxS 12ga 28"
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putz463
PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2019 2:43 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Oct 2007
Posts: 1837
Location: West MI

IMO, Delrin in the grand scheme can get brittle especially after work hardening and being that thin, dampening would be moot. UHMW would hold up but would probably flow/squish under the pounding. I'd get steel, you're simply moving the wear face over ~0.030". Brass would be my second choice.

Good luck with it...

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