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TripleH
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 11:36 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Dec 2016
Posts: 168
Location: Michigan

Gents,

Hoping someone may have some advice.

Was shooting my Citori the other day, noticed it was not opening all the way on the first station, had to give it a bit extra. Ditto on the second station. Would open about halfway, then had to muscle it a bit to get it to open the rest of the way and eject the shells. Well, come the third station I couldn't close it. Still can't. It's all the way open and will not budge.

I took the stock off and inspected what I could, found no evidence of any loose shot or shrapnel impeding anything - although I'm far from a gunsmith. I took a few photos of the inside and will attempt to post them here. You can see in one of the closeups what looks like a bit of a bur or uneven surface, not sure if that is what is the source of the problem or not?

Just thought I would post this here in the event it's a simple fix that I'm overlooking that might save me a trip to the smith. Of course it was the gun I had made up my mind to carry most of the year,,,,,luckily this is exactly why everyone needs backup 16's...(and backups to the backups's backups!)

Thanks in advance for any advice or thoughts.

[img]https://imgur.com/a/3zPZy1p[/img]

Rob
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TripleH
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 11:50 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Dec 2016
Posts: 168
Location: Michigan

Ok, i still apparently can't figure out pictures here....will keep working on it
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skeettx
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 12:46 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 9455
Location: Amarillo, Texas

Click on this for some pictures

https://imgur.com/a/3zPZy1p

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brdslayr
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 1:11 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 05 Apr 2017
Posts: 155

My armchair guess is forend galled to receiver.

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curteric
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 1:46 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 25 Oct 2012
Posts: 70
Location: Full time RVing. Location can be anywhere warm.

I’ve seen a forearm galled to the receiver before, usually caused by not greasing the hinges.
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TripleH
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 1:55 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Dec 2016
Posts: 168
Location: Michigan

Awesome. Assume that’s a trip to the gunsmith.
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4setters
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:08 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 19 Nov 2013
Posts: 381
Location: NW Arkansas

HHH,

If the gun is "all the way open" take the forend off the barrels and then pivot the barrels out of the receiver. There very well may be something buggering up the hinge, as mentioned above (trash, a flattened shot, etc.). If so, it may be a simple matter of removing the fouling material, re-greasing the hinge and reassembling the barrel to the receiver. Check both surfaces of the hinge and the rear metal arc of the forend.

While there could be a problem with the 2 lockup parts that protrude from the internal workings of the rear of the receiver (where your pics were taken), I would suspect that the problem is more than likely associated with the hinge. I'll see if I can take a pic of those two parts--if it comes out, I'll post it.

If a spent shell is still in the barrels, it could be a protruded, stuck bottom firing pin, which might hold the bottom spent shell in place, but I doubt it. Even then, the gun should close. Usually just the reverse happens--weak springs or debris in the firing pin channel keeps the firing pin from functioning perfectly; i.e., it doesn't always fire the bottom chamber.

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16 gauges:
1954 Win M12 IC
1952 Ithaca M37 Mod
1955 Browning Auto-5 Mod
1940 Ithaca NID M/F
1959 Beretta Silver Hawk
Ranger 103-II M/F
Browning A-5 Sweet 16
Browning Citori Invector
Rem 870 Remchoke
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TripleH
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:31 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Dec 2016
Posts: 168
Location: Michigan

Thanks 4setters for idea, I can’t get the forend off the barrels unfortunately. I’m only able to move the lever out about 15% of its normal range and I’m not thinking horsing on it would be a good idea.

No shells are in the gun, it’s stuck all the way open.

Rob
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4setters
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 4:13 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 19 Nov 2013
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Location: NW Arkansas

Well, hmmmmph. The forend lever on mine only comes down about a quarter of an inch, maybe slightly more and releases the forend. A slight tug on the front end and the forend pops loose. Since that function is completely independent of any other functions of the gun, I'm thinking more and more that you have a severely buggered up hinge area. Once the forend lever moves clear of the hook on the bottom of the barrels, the only other area of the forend that contacts the receiver is the metal back arc of the forend and the metal extension that centers the forend relative to the receiver. If this 3/16th inch wide, 1/4 inch long (est.) is rusted into the recceiver or if the metal arc is rusted or bound up by debris to the hinge arch of the receiver, then the forend would be difficult to come off. And, of course, the gun might be hard to open due to either rust or debris in the hinge area.

On the other end of the receiver near the firing pins are two parts that move relative to opening the firearm. The first is a round metal piece just forward of the trigger guard that tilts up when the opening lever on top of the gun is moved to the right (and should stay open, until the gun is closed). The first pic below shows it. Note that when the gun is open, this piece tilts on a pin (visible on my well worn 88 Citori). On the front of this piece is a 1/4 inch wide, appx. 7/8 inch long piece that also tilts up. It goes between the back two lugs (pic 3) of the monobloc and into a space beneath the front lug of the monobloc. If this piece is rusted in or has debris where it won't tilt, then gun opening difficulties will result.

The 2nd pic is showing the inside of the receiver. It is intended to show the full width bar below the bottom firing pin that locks the receiver tight to the barrels when the action is closed. With the top lever to the right, this bar moves rearward to clear the barrel monobloc, which has a full width groove in it (pic 3). When the action is closed, this bar moves forward to lock the barrel and receiver together. Again, any rust or dirt/debris around this bar could cause issues.

The third pic has been referred to in the preceeding two paragraphs. I really doubt that there is anything in the works above the trigger (your pics) that is causing the problem, but I could be wrong. I think something around the hinge pin area is the problem. Good luck!

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jEKKHG] [/url]20200908_172101 by Michael Widner, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jEFpsF] [/url]20200908_172326 by Michael Widner, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jEFq4L] [/url]20200908_172530 by Michael Widner, on Flickr

_________________
16 gauges:
1954 Win M12 IC
1952 Ithaca M37 Mod
1955 Browning Auto-5 Mod
1940 Ithaca NID M/F
1959 Beretta Silver Hawk
Ranger 103-II M/F
Browning A-5 Sweet 16
Browning Citori Invector
Rem 870 Remchoke
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