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| < 16ga. Ammunition & Reloading ~ Cheddite hull recipes with cb100 wads... |
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Sat Jan 09, 2021 9:32 am
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Joined: 04 Mar 2019
Posts: 1837
Location: Central ND
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There is a very simple solution to this issue of powder migration with the SP16 wad in a RIO, Cheddite/Winchester, Federal, Fiocchi etc hull, which will not affect velocity or chamber pressure.
Precision Reloading has a product called Tight Seal in 12/16 ga. It is a tyvek (as in house wrap) disc, larger than the i.d. of a 16 gauge hull. Drop the powder, insert the Tight Seal all the way to the powder(I use a 5/8" wood dowel), insert the SP16 and continue loading.
This stops the powder migration.
The other method I have tried is with a .020" 16 gauge overshot wad under the SP16 inserted the same way as the Tight Seal.
I just like the Tight Seal better.
However I believe that the overshot card is best with finer grain powders. |
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Mark...You are entitled to your own opinion. You aren't entitled to your own facts. |
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Sat Jan 09, 2021 3:52 pm
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Member
Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 601
Location: Virginia
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| I use the SG-16 for just about all loads in European hulls up to 1 oz. It has the proper diameter to block powder migration. |
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Sat Jan 09, 2021 4:12 pm
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Joined: 04 Mar 2019
Posts: 1837
Location: Central ND
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DanLee,
You said the magic words ..... 1 oz.
1 1/8 oz. in the SG16 or the Z2M is a tight fit, that's why the SP16 is necessary. |
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Mark...You are entitled to your own opinion. You aren't entitled to your own facts. |
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| Posted:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 6:29 pm
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Member
Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 601
Location: Virginia
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| MSM2019 wrote: |
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1 1/8 oz. in the SG16 or the Z2M is a tight fit, that's why the SP16 is necessary.
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I use the Activ G-32 for heavier loads in European hulls. Dunno the current nomenclature for that wad but it works better than the SP16. |
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| Posted:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 6:32 pm
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Joined: 04 Mar 2019
Posts: 1837
Location: Central ND
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G-32 is the SG16.
Never had good luck with it. My guns pattern better with the SP16. Not sure why. |
_________________
Mark...You are entitled to your own opinion. You aren't entitled to your own facts. |
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| Posted:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 6:40 pm
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Member
Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 601
Location: Virginia
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| MSM2019 wrote: |
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G-32 is the SG16.
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No, the Activ G-32 was more like the Z16 that BP sells, but without the extra disk near the powder cup. The Activ G-28 was close to the SG16 but without all the little fingers in the powder cup. It is available from BP as the SG16S. |
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| Posted:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 7:06 pm
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Joined: 04 Mar 2019
Posts: 1837
Location: Central ND
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DanLee,
You are right.
The G-32 is the wad that some of us are looking for and was sold as a Cheddite wad, but has since disappeared.
The last time I was able to get them was about 5 or so years ago from Grafs.
Somebody wanted them and I sold them.....before I knew that Graf's would never have them again. |
_________________
Mark...You are entitled to your own opinion. You aren't entitled to your own facts. |
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| Posted:
Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:52 pm
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Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 817
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| Hammer bill wrote: |
| 3birddogs wrote: |
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Hammer bill--what is this quick modification to the powder cup of the CB wad, you mentioned?
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3dogs. Under a mild heat I expand the over powder cup .002- .004 OVL. POWDER MIGRATION has not been a problem. Also if I can break targets 35 to 40 behind the trap house. Killing game has never been a problem. I cannot remember the last time I've had a blooper.
Shooting trap games I just load my pouch full and wait till I run low then refill. I got shoot ATA hardly anymore. Their is no money in it to make it worth while. Playing the games at several different clubs is my thingy.
If u want to know how I do expand the wad just let me know. I can explain it over the ph better than typing on my ph. I don't have use for a computer.
I've been retired 7 years now.
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You can feel the difference if you slip a expanded wad into an empty hull and slide it down. I have found .004 per side total .008 ovl is plenty of expansion. |
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Mon Feb 22, 2021 12:03 pm
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Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 152
Location: San Diego
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a) You can candle your loaded shells with the cell phone flash light. Migrated powder shows bright as day.
b) I've heard guys push the powder cups against a hot light bulb for just a couple seconds to flare them.
c) I've had good luck with Green Dot, bigger granules.
c-1) Hmm, I think the bigger the granule the lower the density, can we use powder density as a proxy for granule size? |
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It's not how many breaths you take, it's how many times you have been breathless.
Dying with all ten fingers is like dying with money in the bank- you could have had more fun! |
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| Posted:
Mon Feb 22, 2021 7:32 pm
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Member
Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida
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How much powder has to "migrate" to produce a blooper? Think about that . . . it is easy to test. One cannot argue powder migration is undesirable, and it never gets better when cartridges are handled in the field, but try reducing the charge by even a whole grain if you really think powder migration is the problem with a blooper. How much migration do you see in an opaque hull against the brightest light? You'd have to lose probably a third of your powder to produce a noticeable ignition problem. Certainly there would be a velocity reduction, but not an outright blooper.
Bloopers I've seen/heard are from folks 1) running out of powder during loading or having some other powder drop issues, and 2) improper wad positioning, i.e. cocked wads and/or damaged plastic wad units. Bloopers stem from errors in the reloading process -- sloppy reloading and yes, ill-thought-out component combinations leading to "blow-by". I like the "expanded overshot cup" wad mod rather than adding another loose component over the fire, such as Tyvek. I know . . . Tyvek works. For me, though, JMHO, Tyvek over powder takes 3rd place behind #1 expanded overshot cup mod and #2 added nitro card. |
Last edited by MaximumSmoke on Tue Feb 23, 2021 7:39 am; edited 1 time in total |
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| Posted:
Mon Feb 22, 2021 8:20 pm
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Joined: 16 Jul 2015
Posts: 2124
Location: Hudson,Wy
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I don't use heat when I flare all of my Claybuster 16 ga. wads. I just roll the lip of the cup hard against the rim of a 12 or 10 ga. hull. Does the trick and the plastic seems to have a good memory once "stretched". I load with wads I flared a year in advance sometimes. No more bloopers with leaky powders like Hodgon Longshot.
If you need euro wads, check out Precision Reloading in South Dakota. They use different designations for them than BPI (who feels the need to rename them), but they are the same wads. BPI and I don't get along so well in recent years and Precision sells some products that are better, such as their buffer. |
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Only catch snowflakes on your tongue AFTER the birds fly south for the winter... |
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| Posted:
Tue Feb 23, 2021 7:37 am
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Member
Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida
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+1 WyoChukar, good post. And Precision Reloading's PSB is the best. I'm glad we have both Precision Reloading and Ballistic Products, Inc. Both have done well by me. I'm glad we have other suppliers, too. Competition improves the product. That way, I'm free to choose.
Cheers! |
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| Posted:
Tue Feb 23, 2021 11:14 am
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Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 152
Location: San Diego
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| MaximumSmoke wrote: |
How much powder has to "migrate" to produce a blooper? Think about that . . . it is easy to test. One cannot argue powder migration is undesirable, and it never gets better when cartridges are handled in the field, but try reducing the charge by even a whole grain if you really think powder migration is the problem with a blooper. How much migration do you see in an opaque hull against the brightest light? You'd have to lose probably a third of your powder to produce a noticeable ignition problem. Certainly there would be a velocity reduction, but not an outright blooper.
Bloopers I've seen/heard are from folks 1) running out of powder during loading or having some other powder drop issues, and 2) improper wad positioning, i.e. cocked wads and/or damaged plastic wad units. Bloopers stem from errors in the reloading process -- sloppy reloading and yes, ill-thought-out component combinations leading to "blow-by". I like the "expanded overshot cup" wad mod rather than adding another loose component over the fire, such as Tyvek. I know . . . Tyvek works. For me, though, JMHO, Tyvek over powder takes 3rd place behind #1 expanded overshot cup mod and #2 added nitro card.
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I've candled* some Cheds with Rem sp16, they looked like the whole middle zone of the wad was full. They were OK at one gun range with a paved road access, for three stations of clays. By the 4th the shaking in the shell bag made bloopers. The other club with it's wash board road made bloopers from the get-go.
If I get back to those wads, I'll do the light bulb thing. I think it is probaly more surer.
* What I mean by Candling is to shine a bright light through the side of the shell. Farmers used to candle eggs to see if they had been fertilized. It works in shot shells as well as egg shells. But you are looking for "infertile" loads. |
_________________
It's not how many breaths you take, it's how many times you have been breathless.
Dying with all ten fingers is like dying with money in the bank- you could have had more fun! |
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