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<  16ga. Guns  ~  Those slim slots in Euro gun screws
casebro
PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 9:04 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 152
Location: San Diego

Since I've attacked my Merkel, I've been cogitating on them little slots in the screws, and how the screws are so tight, exactly flush with the surface, and the slots are 'timed' longitudinally.

I now figure that the screws have bigger heads and slots when install. The are screwed in snugly with a hefty screwdriver. THEN the heads are filed down to flush with the surface before the slots are engraved in. The slots are all cut lengthwise to the gun.

I had initially assumed the slots were concaved at the bottoms, being cut with a slitting saw. But in further puttering I realized they are flat-bottom, dead end slots. Engraved.

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WyoChukar
PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 12:40 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Jul 2015
Posts: 2124
Location: Hudson,Wy

I'm pretty certain the slots were cut with files intended for the purpose.

There are a few methods to time screws. The manufacturers had plenty of screws handy. By trial and error finding a proper match is possible.

An alternate method is to remove metal from the "underside" of the head a little bit at a time, checking for timing until the slot is properly oriented. This can be done with proper files or by lathe.

In either case, as you suspect, the screw heads are thicker than needed so they can be filed flush later.

A third method I have observed with some bolt action rifles is the use of thin shim rings under the screw head. Shims of different thicknesses allow obtaining that well timed look with floor plate screws.

At any rate, it is imperative to use a screw driver that precisely fits the slot to avoid damage. I use a screw driver with removable bits. Even with the "gunsmith set" I find that I often end up very carefully hand filing new bit tips each time I get a new gun. I have spent up to 20 minutes fitting a single bit to a screw head...

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gunut
PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 1:19 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 05 Nov 2005
Posts: 219
Location: Sussex Wisconsin

should just have the all replaced with torx head fastners.....

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jrothWA
PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 10:15 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Nov 2006
Posts: 367

a faster system to strip those heads. {worthless idea]

Keep two cans of 'Kano Kroil" at hand. and soak the fine slotted heads for over night and in the AM, then you might get lucky.
If you have a drill press chuck the fine slotted screw bit into the chuck and lower the bit to the screw and use the chuck key as a lever to hand rotate the chuck to loosen the screw, while maintaining a downward load to prevent camming out of the slot.
{TWO Person operation]

Good Luck.
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jrothWA
PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 10:15 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Nov 2006
Posts: 367

a faster system to strip those heads. {worthless idea]

Keep two cans of 'Kano Kroil" at hand. and soak the fine slotted heads for over night and in the AM, then you might get lucky.
If you have a drill press chuck the fine slotted screw bit into the chuck and lower the bit to the screw and use the chuck key as a lever to hand rotate the chuck to loosen the screw, while maintaining a downward load to prevent camming out of the slot.
{TWO Person operation]

Good Luck.
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Dave in Maine
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2021 2:31 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 12 Sep 2010
Posts: 1972
Location: Maine

WyoChukar wrote:
I'm pretty certain the slots were cut with files intended for the purpose.



An alternate method is to remove metal from the "underside" of the head a little bit at a time, checking for timing until the slot is properly oriented. This can be done with proper files or by lathe.

***

At any rate, it is imperative to use a screw driver that precisely fits the slot to avoid damage. I use a screw driver with removable bits. Even with the "gunsmith set" I find that I often end up very carefully hand filing new bit tips each time I get a new gun. I have spent up to 20 minutes fitting a single bit to a screw head...


1. removing metal from the underside - set the offending screw into a pair of nuts (lock nuts, effectively) and the nuts into the chuck of a drill press such that you can gently file off just enough from the base of the head as it spins in the drill press. This works best on flat-base screws. Only a few seconds might be needed.

2. On screws where the underside of the base is tapered you may do better with either a countersink opening the hole a bit, or the same basic method as with the flat-head. Be aware, though, that the wood screws for tangs are set up so that one screw is intended for one hole and the other for the other. In other words, you might fix a timing problem by recognizing a prior gunsmith mixed up the screws and put the wrong screw in the hole. The same goes for buttplate screws.

3. One of the keys for the right screwdriver bit is getting the bit to full depth in the slot with no slop and full width of the slot occupied by the bit, again with no slop. Time and patience fitting it is the only way.

4. For stuck screws patience and penetrating oil beats brute force every time. Spray-on freezing fluid may help to break things free, too.

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Gordon Disharoon
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2021 4:47 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 17 Jan 2009
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Location: Mesquite, TX.

I knew a gunsmith that heating up the screw head with a soldering iron helped loosen them but I never tried it. Kroil is my personal favorite.

I read in a gun- smithing book to get the screws timed properly one can take a fine punch sharpened and make a steak mark under the screw. Sont know how long this will last though.

Regards, Gordon

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