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<  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading  ~  Hull's effect on loads
architect
PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2021 7:11 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 14 Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Location: Oregon

Hi all. I'm new to reloading but, in a rare flash of brilliance for me, have a good deal of the hulls I've fired. I've been gaining a lot of insight cruising around this forum so thanks to everyone here.

My question is what effect does the choice of hull have on a given load? I see a lot of recipes floating around here that only include the powder and the weight of the shot. Is there a baseline assumption that everyone is using the same basic setup? Or that the recipe will yield generally similar results with other hull/primer combos? I have the BPI 16 Gauge Manual and wonder the same thing about their loads that are listed with various hulls/primers.

The bulk of the hulls I have are 2 1/2" Cheds from my RST shells and 2 3/4" hulls from Boss (Cheds also I believe) and then some red hulls from Winchester SuperX #8 game loads which I guess would be Winchester hulls that originally had Win primers. Also got in an order for primed 2 1/2" cheddite hulls from BPI while they were in stock, but with the 12-14 day processing/shipping delay, I'm not sure if I'll actually get those or if the inventory shown on the site is also delayed.
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2021 8:31 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida

OK, I'll bite . . .

Hull capacity, inside shape (mostly of the basewad area) and wall thickness are the main features causing a difference in response to a given load of powder and shot. By response I mean ballistic response: Internal ballistics, i.e. pressure vs. time, and External ballistics, i.e. velocity. Of course those three factors mentioned also influence the choice of wad to fit a particular load, which has other effects on ballistics, internal and external.

Generally, less hull capacity (including length of hull), more conically shaped basewads and thicker walls move a load toward greater pressure, all other things being equal -- which they probably can't be, entirely. None of this includes the influence of wad friction, hull material hardness, crimp style and depth, etc. Remember we're talking about loads with the same amount and type of powder and shot. Changing those adds more variation, of course. Those changes produce predictable ballistic trends, but those trends are hard to quantify. That's why loads are tested.

So . . . Every load is a sort of individual combination. There are trends, but because of the individual circumstances, only tests show what is tolerable for typical guns.

You say you are new to reloading. Welcome to an enjoyable pastime. You are among the right fellows on this site. Please read some books on shotshell reloading. I recommend the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Handbook: https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Shotshell-Handbook-5Th-Edition/dp/B07Q1NHRWK This is fundamental. I believe there is a 6th edition out by now also. Any of the last 3 or 4 editions will do, and you can find them cheap on the net, new or used.

Best Wishes,
Tony
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architect
PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2021 8:57 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 14 Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Location: Oregon

MaximumSmoke wrote:
OK, I'll bite . . .

Hull capacity, inside shape (mostly of the basewad area) and wall thickness are the main features causing a difference in response to a given load of powder and shot. By response I mean ballistic response: Internal ballistics, i.e. pressure vs. time, and External ballistics, i.e. velocity. Of course those three factors mentioned also influence the choice of wad to fit a particular load, which has other effects on ballistics, internal and external.

Generally, less hull capacity (including length of hull), more conically shaped basewads and thicker walls move a load toward greater pressure, all other things being equal ...

Best Wishes,
Tony


Exactly the type of info I was hoping to get, and I appreciate it greatly. Over the last few months as I've just been poking around online, it's very clear that there are a lot of variables in this hobby. I have the Lyman manual on order already and I'm looking forward to digesting it a bit.
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