16ga.com ~ View topic - rem sp wads

[quote="rizzini 16"]Today I loaded the Rem (dark green) Express Long Range hull with 21.2 grns Longshot, SG16 wad and 1 oz of #8's, CCI 209M primer. Tried a few at the range and they feel pretty good. Snappy, intended for mid range sporting clays shots. Sat's NSCA day reg. shoot so will let you know.
1rst reload on these high brass hulls so jury's out on # of reloads.
Recipe is off of Hodgdon 16 g Database for Rem SP hull
1250/9700.
Rizz 16
PS

My standard sporting clays go-to load is the BP greenie hull, win 209,
23. grns Unique, SG16wad and again, 1 oz of #8's. Slams everything.
1275/9100

I've found that these old Remmys and the AA Win-types load very nearly the same...how about you?

We don't have any Win AA's in 16 back here in Maine. About all that's on the shelf at retail is the Rem GL, the Rem Exprss Long Range, a little Fiocchi, and very rarely some Federal purples.

But for 28g we DO have the Win AAHS-the best 28g hull going in my mind. 10-12 reloads.

Tried the 1250 Longshot load this wknd at sporting clays, very nice indeed in the dark green Express Long Range hull. Best I can do here is $9.50 a box at Mall-Wart; i just buy a box or two now and then (they come 1 1/8th oz from the factory at 1295!) for those 50 yd. plus sporting shots. But have a ccumulated 2-300 of them so.....why not load 'em up!)
Thanks, Rizz

Hey Britgun
Rem Express Long Range Hull (dark green high brass) recipe:
Longshot 21.r grns + SG16 wad + CCI209M primer + 1 oz 8 shot
= 1250fps/9700 psi.
This recipe is from the Hodgdon Datasheets on their website for 16 gauge.
Worked real well for sporting clazys last weekend.

Note from their sheets that, 1 more grain of powder (22.2 grns) will give you 1300/ 10700. !!

The tech guy at Hodgdon told me on the phone that pressures in the 9000 range seem to work best, overall, in the 16.

If you are using the old fiber based Remington translucent green hull with 209 sized primers, you are on thin ice already. These old cases require the now long obsolete #57 primer which is smaller in diameter, substantially smaller.

This practice is a long recognized reloading no -no. I've heard of folks doing this regularly to use up these old cases. I've even had them post back that I'm wrong and that its perfectly safe. BALONEY!!!. Don't do it. You are risking your gun and your fingers and face here. That old base wad can't take the stress. It will lift, crack and/or disintergrate. Parts of one will eventually end up in your barrel as an obstruction. you will not even know it either, because the shell will fire and feel normal. THEN BOOOM!!!

Let the idiots who believe 50 or 60 years of recognised and acclaimed reloading knowledge is wrong (not mine, the industry's) and they are right. They ain't. I don't want to be around when they find out either. I do not care to be in the line of flying shrapnel because some fool thought he knew better than the experts who designed these hulls and primers and who also wrote the reloading manuals.

Thanks 16gaugeGuy-No, I'm using the new dark green Rems i just bought off the shelf and shot once. I remember you talking about this some time back and so i cut open a hull to check and indeed it does have the plastic basewad.
I often see suggested recipes on this site but am too meticulous about my reloading to use any of them unless they come with a reference to which powder company datasheet they came from.
I feel it is probably pretty dangerous for contributors to this website, no matter what their experience, to suggest any recipe that they just dreamt up.
Safety First, last and always.
Rizz

Member Joined: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 46 Location: Illinois

That eases my mind greatly Rizzini 16. When you referred to the "dark green" colored hulls, alarms went off. I too use the lighter shaded kelly green Remington hulls myself. They have the exact same capacity as the black ones. Either will work fine.

Sometimes I use the data before me to compare and examine a similar load. However, I never stray too far from that guidance. I also always call and check with that particular powder manufacturer's ballistics lab before I actually load any proposed recipes.

I've learned from the numerous technicians I've questioned and chatted with over the years just how much leeway I have in substituting primers, wads , hulls, etc with a specific powder and what to expect. I also always check with these folks on a new type primer or any componant that's been introduced or redesigned. They are usually pretty aware of any differences and potential problems with the new item. I log down their advice to help me retain it and refer back to my log whenever I need to.

I've learned over the years that we actually have quite a bit of flexibility if we understand the characteristics of the componants we are using and stay within a narrow, middle of the road range of pressures. However, having the knowledge and a written record to refer to are basic requirements before we can start manipulating any data. It takes time and experience to know what to do and who to ask when a question arises. Winging it does not work well.