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Member Joined: 29 May 2009 Posts: 9 Location: Illinois

Hello,
I am a new member on the 16ga.com. I just purchased an older 16 ga sxs gun (I have not received it yet) and I would like to start reloading for it.
What type of reloader would you recomend for a 16 ga?
Currently I am using a MEC 9000 for my 12 ga reloading.
I have a MEC 600 12 ga. Can I retrofit that one for a 16 ga reloading?
Also, I have been reading the forums for some time now and I must say, that this is an awesome site. I also signed up for 16 ga reloading group.

Thank you,
Merkel68

Welcome aboard.

There are plenty of threads in the archive listing what Mec's can be converted to 16ga. I know my single stage 700 VersaMec has 12, 16 and 20ga die sets. Try using our search function.

Since you are already familiar with a MEC Progressive, I'd recommend a 16 ga Grabber. They are a bit easier to reverse and reset than a 9000 and a bit more versitile IMO. The collet resizing station is a must now that all 16 ga hulls have steel rims, which are a pain to resize any way you do it. The MEC collet sizer is adjustable and much more positive for the job.

If we had real nice 16 ga hulls like the STS or WWAA, I'd say just get another 9000. We don't, so the grabber should prove easier to use with our standard and usual crappy 16ga hulls.

Member Joined: 27 Jun 2005 Posts: 1545 Location: Michigan

I noticed you said an older SxS.
Grabbers are a great press, but if you plan on loading and shooting the short shells, 2-1/2" or 2-9/16", I will have to reccomend the Sizemaster.
I have not been able to adjust the Grabber down enough to load short shells correctly. I load 2-1/2" hulls by the 1000's on my Sizemaster.

Good point Dave. It begs the question though. MEC reloaders are adjustable for 2-3/4 or 3" shells by moving the center post up or down a 1/4 inch to the right bolt hole. I wonder if the post could have a hole drilled in it for shorter hulls. I never thought about it or looked to see. If, so, that would make the job a bunch easier.

Another possible solution is to have the chambers lengthened if the gun barrels will allow it.

Member Joined: 29 May 2009 Posts: 9 Location: Illinois

Thank you guys for your replies.

Merkel68

Member Joined: 06 Oct 2007 Posts: 2349 Location: West MI

Welcome aboard, have you considered roll crimping? IMO its very easily adaptable to different hull lengths and materials. Also, it maximizes available/possible load capacity. Depending on your volume it's worth looking into. Good luck, Mike

Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1460 Location: Eagle, Nebraska

I would agree. Roll crimping is the Cat's meow. ( I think that is the phrase all the kids are using)

I think you will find better luck with components, etc using the roll crimp, with the shorter hull lengths.

Guest

I agree with Dave Miles, and his suggestion of the Sizemaster.

Progressives are great, but you need a good single stage to compliment them.

Sort of like shotguns, there is no good reason not to have as many as you want.

Member Joined: 29 May 2009 Posts: 9 Location: Illinois

Yes, I am considering roll crimping, and idealy that is what I would like to do, especially on the shorter length hulls, as you have suggested.
I have never roll crimped and I have been reading everything I can find on the websites about roll crimping. However, I still have a lot of questions.
For example:
1. Do you start the shell loading on the reloading press just like any other shell, and then finish it with roll crimping?
2. How much do you have to cut down a 2.75" shell to end up with a good 2.5" loaded shell?
3. How much hull do you need in order to get a nice roll crimp? (1/4"?)
5. Is the 2.5" length, the length of a loaded hull or the length of a fired hull?
6. What would be the best hulls for reloading roll crimps? I do not have any 16 Ga shells, so I would like to start accumulating the right type hulls.
7. What primer do the new Chedite pre-primed empty hulls have?

I apologize for all those questions, but as I said earlier, I am new at this.

Thank you in advance.
Merkel68

Guest

Merkel68 Tony covered the subject very well but I might add if your new shotgun is a vintage American made gun the standard chamber length was 2 9/16th inches. By trimming to 2 9/16th inches you get a bit more hull volume to play with.

Joined: 18 Sep 2005 Posts: 10 Location: Columbia, Missouri

16gg,

You can move the post down on a grabber. I do all of my 16 ga loading on such a press. It does require a few other modifications, though.

You have to machine 1/4" off of the shank of the primer punch and use a bushing (or stack of washers) above/below the head when loading 2 1/2" or 2 3/4". You also have to drill and tap a new hole in the bar in the post that actuates the resize collet. On my press (old 72R) I had to drill a hole in the base to allow this bar to move down far enough. You have to cut 1/4" off of the bottom of the final station (this has no effect when going back to 2 3/4" shells that I can tell. Lastly, you have to either machine a new slot in the wad guide post or else put 1/4" filler on the top between the head and the snap ring (I just cut a small piece of copper tubing.

You can do all of it with simple hand tools save for the primer punch. I took mine to a friend, but I'm sure any machine shop would do it for very little.

Member Joined: 06 Oct 2007 Posts: 2349 Location: West MI

M68, incase you end up RC'ing here's a description of my set-up;

For the resizing I use a MEC Super Sizer mounted in a bench top drill press. 2 grouse with one shell; resizing and hull holding in one step. With rollcrimp tolls and MEC collets for the different gauges, good to go.

For metering, loading and tamping an old MEC 600 with an adjustable powder/shot bar does the job. No gauge specific dies or anything. Makes the set up very adaptable for the 10, 16 and 24ga I reload in just about any hull length. + A scale for hand verifing the steel shot loads.

Mike