16ga.com ~ View topic

Joined: 18 Nov 2005 Posts: 87 Location: Middle TN

I have an older PW375 and an older manual which is not the clearest set of instructions in the world. So, a couple of questions:

First, when you switch over from one gauge to another, how do you set up the wad pressure gauge for the new size? My wad pressure gauge seems specific to the 12 gauge/drop tube. With that said, the powder/shot tube for the other gauges seems to work fine and the wad seats well and closes well with good crimps, but there must be some wayto adjust or measure this. I have talked to the factory and still do not understand.

Second, when you are ejecting the completed round, how do you catch yours. I normally just put my fingers underneath and let it drop, but put my thumb in the wrong spot and got it primer punched. Not fun. Just wondering if there is a better, safer way of doing this.

Last, when setting the final crimp, how far down do you pull the handle, I normally pull the handle all the way down past horizontal, but did not know if this is going to far and putting too much pressure on the shell.

Thanks in advance,

flytier

Guest

1st modern one piece plastic wads do not require wad pressure. Just make sure that the wad is fully seated on the powder charge. Allow the final crimp to apply the pressure to the wad this way you will get the most consistent loads.

2nd It depends on how your crimp die is adjusted. It sounds like yours is set up just about right.

As far as catching the loads I just put a small box under the ejection port and let the loaded rounds fall into the box after I press them out.

Member Joined: 16 Dec 2007 Posts: 592 Location: Minnesota

Sounds like you're on-track with the 375 - it's a solid reloader once you have everything setup. I reload 16 and 12 and only make minor adjustments when changing from one gauge to the other.

One of the few negatives about PW's is their manuals - old or new - they are all not very clear beyond basic setup.

Agree with Twice Barrel's comments - it's not necessary with modern plastic wads to have specific wad pressure - if you seat the wad slightly over the powder charge the final crimp should handle the rest.

I usually just catch the completed shells with my hand and I've never had any problems.

The wad pressure or the wad seating depth is determined by the adjustment rod by loosening the nut and screwing the rod tip in or out as required. I have only needed to adjust this when my crimp gives me trouble and I need the wad to seat a little deeper. It could be clearer in the instuctions for sure. As far as catching the hull your right on track and a few pinched fingers later you will have it licked. When it come to the travel of the handle on the final crimp it will depend on how you have adjusted the final crimper. I find when changing between Remington, Winchester, and others that I can either adjust the final crimp or crimp by feel and shorten the stroke of the handle. I hope some of this makes sence.
Best,
Ron

Joined: 20 Mar 2009 Posts: 428

CALL P&W AND ASK FOR GENE! SHE WILL WALK YOU THROUGH IT. I THINK SHE COULD TAKE ANY P&W PRESS APRT AND REASSEBLE IT WITH A BLINDFOLD ON. AND SHE HAS GREAT COMMUNICATION SKILLS.

I TORE DOWN MY OLD P&W 900 20 GA. DOWN INTO A MILLION PIECES AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AGAIN BY FOLLOWING HER OVER-THE-PHONE DIRECTIONS.

SHE REALLY KNOWS HER P&W'S Exclamation

Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 596 Location: 17603

Dan,
I believe she's the designer/engineer.

Flytier,
As pointed out, you need NO wad pressure with plastic wads, just adjust that sole post at the back with the threaded pin and locknut to get it on the powder.
I like handle all the way down for consistent crimps, it does go over center, but the shells will tell you whether or not you're getting good crimps. If you've got the early non taper crimp set up, the knockout post is solid, and you'll have to adjust the crimp die to where you get a complete handle pull. Sounds like you're doing fine though.
R*2

Joined: 18 Nov 2005 Posts: 87 Location: Middle TN

Thanks for the advice, but it does lead to more questions.

It sounds like maybe I am missing a piece. My used PW came with 12 and 20 gauge tooling already installed. Now I was missing a powder baffle and a seating post, but I do not have any tooling with an adjustable pin and locknut. I looked back at the manual and see the part you are referring too. I guess this goes in where the other toolings primer punch is on the backside of the press? That other primer punch is currently acting as a stop for the wad depth.

Regarding catching the completed loads, it only took one time for me to place my thumb in the wrong spot when pressing out the completed shell to realize that my thumb did not need primer punched out of it. Especially when compound leverge is involved. Personally, I did not know a thumb could bleed that much!

This is a great reloader. The completed rounds look great and shoot well too (when I do my part). I actually have tooling for 12, 16, 20 and 28 gauges.

The press came with a couple of dozen shot and powder bushings, a couple of which are enormous. I looked them up and my largest shot bushing is a 2 ounce drop and the largest powder bushing is a W. For comparison, the 16 gauge powder bushings are in the E to F range. I do not know what he was reloading, but I doubt he missed it with 2 ounces of shot. I am assuming that was for a 10 gauge.

Thanks,

Flytier

Joined: 20 Mar 2009 Posts: 428

[quote="Rrusse11"][color=darkgreen][size=14]Dan,
I believe she's the designer/engineer.

[b]I KNEW THAT SHE KNEW WHAT SHE WAS DOING, BUT I DID NOT KNOW THAT SHE WAS THE ENGINEER/DESIGNER Shocked

NO WONDER SHE KNOWS WHAT SHE IS DOING Laughing

I own (2) 375's - One in .410 Ga. and my most recent purchase, a 375C in 16 Ga. they do a great job Exclamation