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Brewster11
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 10:16 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1310
Location: Western WA

I was having trouble with buckling and splitting near the crimp when reloading once-fired Cheddite hulls with my MEC 600 Jr. Then I noticed that the buckling and splitting appeared to start by one of the three long crimp fingers inside the plastic MEC crimp starter.
So I took my Dremel tool and removed about 2-3mm on each of the 3 long fingers, smoothly fairing them down to the inside of the crimp starter.
That did the trick. No more case buckling or splitting, perfect tight crimps each time.

Brewster
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skeettx
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:22 am  Reply with quote
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??

A picture would be most helpful

Thanks

Mike

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WyoChukar
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:49 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Jul 2015
Posts: 2126
Location: Hudson,Wy

He is referring to the modern snap on style plastic crimp starter. If you take one of these "Spindex" starters in your hand and turn it over to look inside you will notice 3 alignment ribs that extend into the tapered section (4 on an 8 pt. starter). The idea is that these ribs naturally rotate the starter head into position as the press handle is pulled down. I can often see the head rotate into position. These are the ribs that were trimmed back. They would have been made shorter in length, leaving a gently tapered transition.
It looks like a 1/2" sanding drum would be the easiest means if trimming them back. The operation should only take a few seconds. The older (pre 83) all metal units didn't have the ribs and seemed to work well enough anyway.

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16gaugeguy
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 9:19 am  Reply with quote
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All my MEC 600 Jr. presses are older models with the original internal type stamped aluminum or brass crimp guides. Steel spacer discs placed on top of the crimp guide inside the die limit the guide's upward movement which determines the crimp height once the die is adjusted. The spacers are supposed to loosely hold the guide so it can spin and index itself the to existing hull crimp folds. The design leaves a lot to be desired, especially for 6 point crimps.

I add one or two thin card discs to limit the movement of the guide. I then orient the guide to a known position and simply index the hulls to the guide before I crimp. Problem solved.

All my Grabbers are fitted with the new snap on guides. As directed in the MEC owner's manual, I apply dab of light grease to the ball before snapping the crimp guides in place. The grease allows the 8 point Spindex crimping guides to work perfectly, but I occasionally still have problems with 6 point guides.

I finally put a witness mark on the outside of the 6 point crimping guide, and then align it and the hull crimps beforehand. Easy peasie solution to a PITA problem. Works for me. Might work for the newer MEC 600 Jrs. and Size Masters if the grease doesn't.
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WyoChukar
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 11:11 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Jul 2015
Posts: 2126
Location: Hudson,Wy

The 600 I use for loading 10 Ga. still has the old metal starter. The shim adjustment was inadequate and I ended up using washers between the assembly and press frame. The newer style Spindex provides much better adjustability, but I never remember to get one for 10 ga. when I place a reloading order!

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Brewster11
PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 1:59 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1310
Location: Western WA

Here are some pics (with apologies for large size):

Problem: Once-fired 2 1/2 in. cheddite splitting and buckling after crimping:

Cause: Long rib in MEC crimp starter is gouging hull:

Solution: Grind down long ribs in MEC crimp starter with Dremel:

Outcome: Perfect crimp and reload!:


Thanks,

Brewster
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skeettx
PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 5:30 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Amarillo, Texas

Looks promising
Thank you for the pictures
Mike

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