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Given that a Citori has chrome-lined bores, is there any reason, other than aesthetics, that I should have to clean my gun after each outing? Of course, a wipe-down with a silicone or oiled rag is done, but I am asking about disassembly, running a brush and mop, and re-oiling the hinge, etc.

For the last couple of seasons, I have not, and suffered no apparent ill effects, but I was reading recently about how some of the modern powders still leave a somewhat corrosive residue, or more specifically, a hydrophilic residue that will gather and hold atmospheric moisture on the bores.

Thoughts?

I know Browning wrote in the instruction manual that came with mine to make sure to oil the hinge (and wipe off excess) as it would ensure a long life for the firearm... inferred (to me anyway) is that if one does not oil the hinge, problems may arise.

I put a tad of oil on my little finger and smear it on the pin to avoid over oiling. Re the barrels, I find a bore snake works great. One can either run it "dry" or put a dab of oil on the tail end of it. Easy, and cleans the barrels quite well.

Guest

I agree, I always do the wipe down. I run a boresnake through a few times with some clenzoil on the end if I know I'm going back in the field within a few days. If it will be a week or more between hunts, I usually break them down and do a thorough cleaning. I believe thw wipe down is more critical, as sweat, moisture and dirt are going to do external damage more quickly than residue in the bores. Partial cleaning was an easy choice with the Merkel when new, as it was almost impossible to take apart, it was so damn tight!

If I don't clean my 1987 lightning right away the chambers and forcing cones rust within a day. I always breakdown and completely clean after every outing.That light pitting is hell to scrub out with JB. The newer guns may not have that issue. My bores and chambers are not chrome lined.

Don't depend on the thin chrome wash put in the chamber area. It does nothing for the throat and bore. Its there only to prevent finger acids and mildly acidic plastic residue from the shells from rusting the chamber. This happens especially in humid climes like Florida or in summer.

Depending on how many shots are taken per outing, I'd at least wipe out the bores with a piece of cotten flannel patch sprayed with WD-40 over a 20 ga mop. This will keep the mop clean and will remove any carbonaceous (boy, I'll bet you did not think I knew that one Laughing

) residue in the bores. This fouling can attract moisture and can cause rust and pitting. Then wipe the outside of gun down with a clean rag with a little WD-40 sprayed on. I usually do this before I leave the range. I always wipe the gun down before casing it after a hunt too.

I use plain old WD-40 for this wipe down process. For modern hot blue finished steel, it won't hurt a thing. It will remove cold blue touch ups though. WD-40 is cheap and effectrive for removing moisture, finger acids, bird blood, mud, beer, and, old chocolate candy bar smudges...and oh yes, jelly donut residue. Laughing

I buy the industrial sized cans at Home Depot very cheaply.

I use the same WD-40 for a more thorough job after shooting a couple of boxes at the range. I first wipe the bores as before to remove any grit. I then give the bores a squirt, and follow up with 10 or more passes with a 12 ga bronze brush. A 12 ga bronze brush will do a more effective job of removing any left over plastic wad fouling as well as the carbon. Just go completely through the bore before reversing direction. you won't ruin the oversized brush this way. Then follow up with another patch over the 20 ga mop. Then wipe the gun down again with the rag. Follow up with some rust preventative oil on another rag if you are going to store the gun for more than a week.

I also use a bit of salt water proof bearing grease on the hinge pin, barrel block sides, forend iron bearing surfaces and, forend latch surfaces every so often. Just a bit goes a long way. Don't cake it on. Apply it lightly when you notice the steel is getting dry in these places.

If you do what I recommend every time you fire the gun, the steel will become conditioned and the plastic fouling and carbon will wipe right out. It only takes a minute or two but will keep your gun ship shape and will preserve its value too. also, clean, unfouled/uncaked chokes shoot better. Make sure these surfaces are clean and shiny.

However, once steel bore becomes stained with rust or pitted, fouling will cling more and build up faster. I then use carborator cleaner to get the plastic fouling out and follow up with an older 20 ga. bronze brush wrapped in OOOO steel wool attached to an old cut off cleaning rod which is chucked up in an electric hand drill. I blow on some WD-40 and polish the bores lightly but frequently until I see that the fouling is not clinging like it was. About 20 fulll length passes to start will do. Stop when you start to feel the barrel warm a bit. Wipe the bore thoroughly with a clean treated patch as before to remove any residue and wool fibers. Also, clean out the ejector area with an old toothbrush too. Repeat the roto-polishing with each cleaning until you see improvement. Most guns will show an improvement within three treatments. Then follow up every 6 monthes or so, more if the gun is fired frequently like a trap or skeet gun.

This roto-polishing will not hurt modern barrel steels or modern choke tubes either. You are on your own with old guns here. I can't say yes or no in this department. Some older barrel steel are fairly soft. However post WWII domestic and Japanese modern barrel steel is very tough and wear resistant. Steel wool is soft and will only polish out the rust, rough edges of the stain, and pitting. It will remove staining. It will not remove pitting. Only a light reboring or back boring will do this. However, if you wipe out your bores every time, pitting won't happen.

This treatment has kept my Perazzi, Browning, Charles Daly/Miroku, Post WWII Ithaca 37, Beretta, Bernadelli, Remington, and newer Winchester guns fine for many years.

One more tip. If your gun has been out in the cold but is dry, wipe it down with a rag before casing it for the ride home. Then, leave it in the case overnight until it warms up to room temperature before exposing it for cleaning. Removing a cold gun into a warm house will cause condensation both inside and out. It can also stress the stock wood. Avoid this if possible.

However, if the gun has been in the rain, leave it out of the case for the ride home after wiping it down, and bring it in immediately, to disassemble, and clean it inside and out quickly. The warmth in the car will prepare it for the trip into the house. I also will warm the barrel and receiver of any rain soaked gun over a low heat setting on the stove range. I cover the flame on a gas stove with a steel hot plate. I also don't expose the wood to this treatment, just the end of the steel receiver and let convection do the rest. Warm to the touch is enough. Don't get it hotter than your bare palm can take or you are overdoing it. You can also set the barrel near a radiator or heater vent to dry it quickly. However, don't get the stock or forearm too warm, too fast. Let the wood cool or warm at room temperature, preferably in a case, to avoid cracking it. This can be especially important to repaired wood or older guns. hope this info helps.