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< 16ga. Ammunition & Reloading ~ Question for the hull cutters! |
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Posted:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 6:27 am
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I'm just delving into reloading 2 1/2" hulls and so far so good!
Anyway, the next step will be making my own shorties, and I'm wondering if they need to be skived or is it enough just to cut them and load.
Thanks in advance. |
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Posted:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 7:24 am
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Member
Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT
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It has been my experience that if you crimp unskived hulls with a 6 point, things go well. |
_________________ Mark |
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Posted:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:32 am
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Mark, thanks! That's what I was hoping to hear. |
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Posted:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:25 am
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Member
Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida
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Dave,
I tried skiving. Don't like it. Found no benefit. Won't do it again.
First, it's difficult and time consuming without the right tool. The necessary tool would be tapered, or better yet something like an inverted form of pencil sharpener or other rotating cutter held at an angle while the hull is rotated, or maybe the cutter is rotated relative to the hull, its rotation axis tilted relative to the hull axis to produce the "skive". I really would like to see how the manufacturers skive hulls. Tools commonly available to the hobbyist are often of the "sandpaper" or bonded abrasive type, and they don't do a good job on hull material without using a fast speed. Even then, abrading away the material causes a lot of heat and can melt and smear material faster than it can be removed. Those tools don't last long either, as the cutting area is just one little band about the inside diameter of the hull. The vast majority of the bonded abrasive is "unemployed".
Machining the relatively soft but tough plastic typical to shotshell hulls requires some sort of cutting action. I've tried a nice sharp tapered pipe reamer, and it works better and certainly lasts longer, but it is still a putzy operation.
The real questions the hand-loader should ask are: Why are hulls skived? and Do I need skiving? I believe the purpose of skiving is to help some plastic wad units feed into hulls with some automatic loading machines used by some ammo manufacturers. However, one can still often find fired factory hulls that were not skived. So who knows for sure -- not me. I don't believe skiving has anything to do with crimping, not even in roll crimiping, as I have never seen a factory roll crimped hull that had been skived. In my own adventures I skived because I thought it would help in pie-crimping new plastic hulls, because I had heard as much from the guy selling the tool. Skiving did not help my crimps, and since I do not have an unattended automated loading factory, I also have no trouble feeding wads into hulls. Therefore I don't skive anymore.
Cheers!
Tony |
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Posted:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:15 am
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Tony, thanks! I appreciate your thoughts.
You're approaching my sensibility level.
Dave |
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Posted:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:56 am
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Member
Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT
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Here is a bit more under the heading of trivial info.
IF you must skive hulls, the best thing to use is a tapered reamer, right hand cut, left hand flute, with about a 20 degree included angle.
You only need to skive maybe 3/16” ..............maybe. |
_________________ Mark |
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Posted:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 2:26 am
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Member
Joined: 06 Oct 2007
Posts: 2346
Location: West MI
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I load 2.5" for a couple older guns, 5/8oz summer target loads, no filler needed and practically no recoil. Have found no need to skive. After cutting to length with Byrdog's trimmer they load as normal with some washers on the platten as a short kit. Only extra step is I add a washer in the PreCrimp for "new" previously uncrimped hulls. The slightly deeper PC seems to help then with the initial crimp then no extra washer moving forward. FWIW, I use the MEC OEM Spindex tool, works fine. |
_________________ Sorry, I'm a Duck Hunter so shouldn't be held strictly responsible for my actions between Oct 1st and ice up. |
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Posted:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:54 am
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Member
Joined: 09 Jan 2013
Posts: 2168
Location: Florida
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Dave , I never skive any of my cut down hulls and they crimp great. |
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Posted:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:02 am
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Thanks, Mark!
I have been amazed at how easy and perfect my first 2 1/2" loads have turned out. I first reloaded the flat of once-fired RST's using the SG16 wad and Green Dot. Then I picked up 500 of the red, primed Cheddites and I couldn't stop loading until they were all loaded!
I have a ton of the once fired Herter's hulls, so I'm just thinking ahead and I wanted to get the skivvy on skivving to prevent my skivvies from getting stretched. |
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Posted:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:52 am
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Member
Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 1498
Location: the Moosehorn
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If you must skiv use a 3 blade 15 degree beveling router bit in a cordless drill ,takes only a second. |
_________________ ALWAYS wear the safety glasses
If you take Cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like Prunes than Rhubarb does ----G.M/ |
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Posted:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:54 am
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Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1308
Location: Western WA
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Skiving makes a very nice seal for the crimp but the downside is after a few firings, the skiving tears away leaving a ragged edge that must be trimmed off.
B. |
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Posted:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 1:02 pm
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Member
Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida
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Dave -- I think I might need to start skiving my skivvies if I don't lose this beer gut. Need a more gradual lead-in.
Tony |
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Posted:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:16 pm
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Member
Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT
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Dave, I got the idea a while back when I checked Federal 16 gauge hulls and I found that they were not skived.
Glad it worked for you too. |
_________________ Mark |
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Posted:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:03 pm
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Joined: 27 Jan 2016
Posts: 490
Location: Oswego, Kansas
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Dave, when I saw you post it got my attention because I had just ordered a trimmer from byrdog and it was info that I needed as well.
When i got the tool in the mail the other day I set it for 21/2" shells and immediately cut down a box of R-P hulls that were about to go in the trash because the crimps were splitting to the point that I used an overshot card and then some glue on the top of the crimp to keep it closed!
I was able to trim a couple hundred hull while watching a ball game on TV and didn't even need a drill to turn the tool!
The real reason for ordering the tool was some clear Cheddite hulls that I ordered from BP were a little on the long side and crimping them resulted in extra fat shells that had to be pushed in to my LC Smith and would not even go in my Model 12!
That problem has been solved! |
_________________ Sweet sixteen forever
LC Smith Field Grade
LC Smith Ideal Grade
CZ Ringneck
Win. Model 12
Rem M11
Stevens 235 |
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Posted:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:09 pm
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Byron Whitlock wrote: |
Dave, when I saw you post it got my attention because I had just ordered a trimmer from byrdog and it was info that I needed as well.
When i got the tool in the mail the other day I set it for 21/2" shells and immediately cut down a box of R-P hulls that were about to go in the trash because the crimps were splitting to the point that I used an overshot card and then some glue on the top of the crimp to keep it closed!
I was able to trim a couple hundred hull while watching a ball game on TV and didn't even need a drill to turn the tool!
The real reason for ordering the tool was some clear Cheddite hulls that I ordered from BP were a little on the long side and crimping them resulted in extra fat shells that had to be pushed in to my LC Smith and would not even go in my Model 12!
That problem has been solved!
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Byron, that sounds great! Mine should be coming along soon. I have a huge batch of RGL hulls that are at the trim or pitch state. Some of my crimps look like my Christmas present wrap jobs when I was a kid. They aren't much better now. (the presents)
It seems like a short RGL hull would work well for 3/4 oz loads. |
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