16ga.com ~ View topic - Cheddites stick in chamber, fail to extract, fet, any help?

If you have polished the chamber, have you tried?
1. replacing the extractors & springs
2. adjusting the barrel fit and if they still stick,
3. pull the barrel and do a chamber casting to measure it properly and look for a poor lengthening job, out of round, or other defects...

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

casebro,

I will no longer get into a battle of keyboards, especially here on the 16 Gauge Society. Either you believe what I have presented or you don’t.

Please leave me out of this argument.

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Upland Carpenter, thank you for the kind words and support.

Why would anyone ask for help when they think they already know the answer?

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

Hey, isn't there a teflon spay lube? Teflon is high temp, not like Chap-Stik.

Joined: 08 Feb 2009 Posts: 1310 Location: Western WA

Just an off the wall idea...try coating the finished shell with Mica Dust from BPI. It might, or might not, help. At least it feels like it should help.

B.

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

Member Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 1257 Location: Nebraska

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

Joined: 16 Jul 2015 Posts: 2126 Location: Hudson,Wy

Okay, I will jump in here. There are a couple of unstated variables. First, these cut in half hulls. Have they been resized or is it the same sticking hull that just came out of the chamber? Second, if so, have you tried running the same hull back in after it begrudgingly comes out without trimming it?

I ask because this will go a long way to firmly establishing the exact source of resistance. A couple scenarios: once the hull comes loose, it may go back just fine. If so, the hang up may actually be mechanical (slide rail, bolt resistance, etc.). I would like to know if, in the event that the hull is still "sticky" after initial extraction, whether: 1) it will go in and out easy after being resized, and 2) whether or not an unaltered hull would come out easy with the barrel removed (push it in and see how easy it comes back out with a cleaning rod). If the hulls slide in and out easy with the barrel removed I would consider other issues, no matter how bizarre.

Also, at what temperature did the plastic melt at? Cheddite? AA or STS? I am curios. It does seem odd that only 8 shots would create enough heat to melt the plastic. That should be pretty visible anyway. The plastics used in hulls generally won't bond well with steel anyway. Light one and let it drip on a steel plate and see how well it sticks.

With enough information we may be able to find the demon causing this. If so, it will help a few other folks too from the sounds of things. One thought that keeps coming to mind is a rough spot where the bolt locks up. I have seen this cause difficult extraction in a variety of guns. It doesn't take much.

For what it is worth, I have used Cheddite hulls in some rough chambers on double guns that should have seen better care and they still came out easy enough. Your problem is a bit vexing, but a solution surely exists.

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

Wyo, they don't stick until the gun gets warm, 6-8 shots. Both virgin hulls or 1-2x fired.

Full length hulls will unsized stick in the detached barrel, without the chamber ring being a factor. Both 2 1/2 & 2 3/4, so they are not sticking to the cone.

So far as actual melting, that was noted when I used a soldering iron to etch in new grooves in the roll-crimp area of the star crimped loads. Chedds melt easy, Gold rems barely, at soldering iron temp. Both my cheds and the other guy's Feds have a ring of slick plastic where the outside grooves are gone. Likewise other ribbed hull brands out of the scrap barrel. I surmise two different families of polyethylene- one for poly-formed, and a harder one for CF. Possible UHMWP, or LMWPE

Anybody else have a soldering iron and old hulls, ribbed and not-ribbed? Go ahead, melt some holes in them and get back to us.

I suspect the PF hulls are built using a plastic that barely meets the lowest standards. Forming ribs is cheaper than buying better polyethylene.

I've seen literally a ton of guns that don't extract 12ga Win Promos. But they work fine with other ammo. and the Wins work in other guns. Something is engineered right to the ragged edge. Is ched using old extrusion dies with the 'groovers' worn?

Joined: 31 Jan 2013 Posts: 152 Location: San Diego

Another thought about the variability between guns- Pumps and autos have only the one barrel to get warmed up, doubles have two, don't get as hot. So, the fact that they don't stick in SXS or O/U is another thing that points to a warm chamber being a factor. In all the tons of guns I've seen that stick, only ONE was a double.