16ga.com ~ View topic - Quesions about care and maintenance before and after rain

Joined: 14 Aug 2005 Posts: 11 Location: South Jersey

I never took any special care or precautions with my guns with hard laquer finishes other than drying them, wiping the metal with a silicone-impregnated cloth and oiling the action. This is my first season with my AyA and I'm wondering if the oil finished wood needs any special attention other than wiping it down afterward. Also, is it ok to wipe over the case-coloring with the silicone cloth? Thanks.

I just put a coat or two of wax on the woodevery now and then. My two guns with oil finish are both brownings, which is sorta a half finish. Wax adds a layer of protection. If you think the weather is likely to be wet, you can wax the metal too. I use Johnsons paste way. If the oil finsh is built up enough, IE shiney, then its probably fine as it is. I imagine AYA does a more thourogh job of finishing than browning does... But the thin layer of wax wouldn't hurt..

I wouldn't think the silicone cloth should hurt the CC.

If things get really wet, then take off wood , place in paper bag and let dry slowly. Flush action with WD-40 and then clean everything...

A recent thread on DoubleGunBBS highly recomended RENAISSANCE WAX http://www.restorationproduct.com/
WD-40 apparently can remove COLD blue

Member Joined: 08 Nov 2005 Posts: 3438 Location: Illinois

WD-40,despite it's ad campaign,slogans and folk lore is one of THE worst products to use on a firearm Wink

I only use wd-40 on two occasions on a firearm. First is it is great for removing plastic wad residue from a shotgun bore. Quick shot of wd-40, then boresnake or tight patch. This is "Pre-cleaning step", followed by usual bore cleaner and then dry and light coat of gun oil for storage.

The other thing WD-40 does well is remove moisture from metal surfaces. WD stands for Water displacing. get the water out, then clean/oil as usual.

using wd-40 tho Clean or Oil a firearm or action can and will eventually lead to build up.

Member Joined: 31 Oct 2005 Posts: 446 Location: Wisconsin

Wd40 will leave a hard coating that will build up over time.
I use and have been using Brichwood Casey 'Sheath' for almost 20 years now(They just changed the name) on the entire firearm. I have never had a problem with any metal or wood finish. After having a firearm out in the rain, I spray that firearm with Sheath making sure that it is worked into the action. Do not return the gun to its case which will be wet inside until you dry the case. If you don't use a firearm and have repeated aplications of sheath, you may build up alayer that slows down the works. A pressure spray of any type of cleaner available today will remove the buildup unlike Wd40 which becomes resistant to solvent.
In very cold weather I sometimes use Rem Teflon spray on the action.-Dick

If the gun gets soaked make sure to completely dry the gun. I put it over a heat vent or in the oven on low heat. This will help dry out the hidden spots you can't wip off. once the gun is heated to 100-150 degrees water behind the ejectors or extractor holes will evaporate. Heat it up or leave over the vent for a few hrs. Then a normal cleaning and lube will be fine. Keep a nice coat of wax on wood and metal when hunting for extra protection.

PP, I'd have to say 150 degrees is not a good idea with older double guns and some new ones unless you want to risk a solder joint or two. I think a hair dryer will work better. Warm moving air will do the job right quick. I sometimes will heat a repeater barrel or a muzzleloading barrel over a gas range, but very lightly, and carefully. If its too warm for your bare palm, its too hot for a gun. don't use a heat gun either. They can overheat a gun in a hurry.

Stock wood, especially thin areas like mortices, need both time and gentle temperatures to adjust or the wood will crack. Ask any wooden stringed instument player about this. More instruments (and double gun stocks) are damaged by quick temperature changes than you would think. Go easy on them.

I've said before that WD-40 can safely be used to remove moisture and old lubes, but it must be thoroughly wiped off to work well. It is primarily a solvent and moisture displacement agent. It is not a lube.

A very, very light application of WD-40 will protect the delicate working parts of most break open shot guns like the trigger group and the inertia weights. But the key word is light. If you can see it, its too heavy. Spray it on, wipe it off. That is all you will need. Also, avoid any of the modern lubes here. they will varnish up and cause nothing but trouble over time. Leave these parts clean and dry. That's all you need to do inside a double gun. this goe for removable trigger groups too, like Perazzi triggers.

Member Joined: 25 Jul 2006 Posts: 781

I find the safest way to warm a gun action to drive out hidden moisture is to place the action on my workbench, about 1 foot under a 100 to 150 watt lightbulb, overnight. After a rough wet day in the fields this slow gentle warming insures that all hidden moisture has the temperature differential AND the time to be well displaced. IMO igh heat for a short time is never as effective as low heat for a long time

I also second the use of Sheath on exterior surfaces. Spray on a film, leave the gun in your rack a day, the film is like heavy auto wax. I reapply it after every full cleaning.

I have used the oven set at 150 degrees with the door open for years the parts are never to hot to pick up. I don't know what the temp. actually is but its not hot.The inside of the action can not be sprayed with WD and wiped down.Evaporation is the only way to dry inside things.A heater vent may be a better idea but i've never had a problem with the oven and all I hunt with are old double's.Plus the heating rehardens the action(ha! ha!) see there's an angle for everything. Point taken I won't heat my guns to baked potato temp.

Wish I knew the truth about WD-40 as regards firearms. Not looking to start an argument, but for every detractor there is somebody else who claims it's the best thing since sliced bread, says they've been using it for years with no problems, and laughs at those who say it's bad. Confused

Member Joined: 25 Jul 2006 Posts: 781

How successful is a product that leaves 50% of the users dissatisfied.

It's fine for some stuff, just not on the working mechanisms in guns.

Jeff

*Last edited by revdocdrew on Tue Nov 28, 2006 2:45 pm; edited 1 time in total*

Pudelguy: maybe you should share your 'baked potatoe case hardening' technique with our ol' buddy Ed1? Very Happy

KyBrad put me on to his latest victim: http://www.gunsamerica.com/guns/976806135.htm
Unbelievable-spot colors on a receiver gone to silver Confused

and it's even a Sterly Mad

Just added to the Case Colors Example PictureTrail http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=12588446&uid=6511424

Member Joined: 25 Jul 2006 Posts: 781

Torchwork and 3" chambers on an early Sterly?

That's just too scary for me.

Jeff

My baked potato case colors are alot nicer. I guess guy's buy that stuff.