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case 1775
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 4:39 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 159

hey guys, I am completely new to reloading of any kind, and would like to work up a load using the components that I have. the only wads that I have are 1 1/8 oz rem. that I bought at the cabelas in hamburg yesterday. my question is, how much green dot should I use to achieve 1200 fps? green dot is also the only powder that I have. any help will be greatly appreciated.

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MSM2019
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 4:44 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 04 Mar 2019
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Location: Central ND

Green Dot and Remington SP16 wads are a bad combo if you are planning on loading 1 1/8 oz. loads in a 16.

You might want to give a bit more information, like, what loads are you actually trying to reload.

Probably should know that you can’t ‘work up’ loads when it comes to shotguns, like you can with a centerfire rifle.

Before you buy any more components, do yourself a favor and buy a Lyman’s 5th Edition Shotshell Reloading Manual.

You can use the powder and the wads that you have for a 16 gauge, but for the most part not together.

While my post may seem a bit harsh, I am trying to save you money and frustration.

You have to figure out what load it is that you want and then buy components for that specific load. But first you need to understand the components and where the loading data comes from.

The Lyman Manual will help you with the basics and the folks here can help you with specific loads and where to find the best data.

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skeettx
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 4:59 pm  Reply with quote
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Great question, this should work

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/RecipePrint.aspx?shotype=&weight=1.125&weightdis=1+1%2f8&shellid=526&gtypeid=3&gauge=16&lid=1880


Last edited by skeettx on Wed Apr 17, 2019 5:01 pm; edited 1 time in total

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case 1775
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 5:00 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 159

I have the data sheet that came with my reloader. it seems I would be fine with green dot In a 1 oz load. I was hoping someone had info on green dot in a 1 1/8 oz load. if green dot wont work, then what powder do I need? as far as hulls, I have anything from herters to fiochi to lightfield and some others too.

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case 1775
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 5:02 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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thanks skeettx, that seems to be exactly what I was looking for.

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16'er
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 6:11 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Tappahannock, Virginia

You can use some filler to load 1 oz loads in the sp16 wad, it will then interchange with the factory R16 wad. Puffed wheat cereal Works well.

The Remington wads work best in the tapered hulls, like the Remington game load hulls.

Fiocchi, cheddite, Winchester modern red hulls, and Federal hulls are straight walled hulls and the CB WAA and Gualandi wads (and the BPI rebrands) are a better bet.

Primers are tricky too. Not something you can just swap one brand for another.

Hope that helps some.
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case 1775
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 6:26 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 159

yes appreciate the reply. I made my first few loads by the recipe skeettx posted. the primers I have are federal 209 (not 209a). the first shell I went to shoot didn't want to load, discovered the primer had come out. I fired four other loads with no mishaps. is the primer issue a big deal? I used herters hulls.

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16'er
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 6:42 pm  Reply with quote
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There are some hull/primer fit issues, but more importantly the primer swap can raise pressure. Swapping a primer with a low to moderate pressure load shouldn’t be problem, but there are plenty of published loads near the pressure limit which would be unadvisable to make primer substitutions with.
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case 1775
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 6:46 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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as far as 1 oz loads, right now all im after is to make some decent trap loads, and I don't really care if they are 1 or 1 1/8. the only "trap" loads I can find in 16ga locally is the win 1 oz wal mart special, and those don't pattern very well, in my experience.

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case 1775
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 6:48 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 159

again, thanks for the reply. the loads im doing now are low pressure, so should be good, right?

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16'er
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:00 pm  Reply with quote
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What wa s the specific published data you started with? And...

What did you actually load?
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case 1775
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:11 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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I followed the instructions in skeettx s link as closely as I could, with the components that I have. what I ended up with was 1 1/8 oz of #8, fed 209 primer, sp 16 wad, in a herters hull. and 19 grains green dot.

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WyoChukar
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:41 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Jul 2015
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For future reference, know that the sp16 wad is the loosest fitting wad. When combined with straight wall cases like the Herter's/ Cheddite, there will be leakage issues with some powders, especially when it comes time to carry the ammo in pockets when hunting. As the shell jiggle in pockets, some powders will leak past the gas seal portion of the wad, resulting in duds and week loads.

Green Dot is super for 3/4 oz. and 7/8 oz. loads in 16 ga. but will work okay for 1 oz. as well. As far as your primer situation goes, I remember well the old style Fed 209 primers. They were a tad small and did fit loose in hulls that had used other primers previously.

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16'er
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:58 pm  Reply with quote
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Pressure limit for 16ga is 11,500. The load you started with is 10500. I’d consider moderate pressure in the ~8000-9500 range.

Federal 209 is the “less hot” primer of the two, so substituting it for a Fed209A should be ok.

Watch for powder migration and if something/anything seems off, make sure the bore is clear prior to loading another shell. Always a good idea anyway to get in the habit of checking the bore for obstructions prior to next shell!

I earlier stated the win 16AA wad was ok for straight wall hulls, I should give some clarity to that statement. It’s better than the SP16 and R16, but still avoid fine grained powder to limitpowder migration past the wad.
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16'er
PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 8:11 pm  Reply with quote
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And a ‘primer’ on primer substitutions:

http://www.armbrust.acf2.org/primersubs.htm

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