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<  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading  ~  Remington sp16 wads substitution
stevesavage
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 8:18 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 13 Apr 2017
Posts: 150

What BP wads can be substituted for Remington SP16 wads? Maybe SG 16s? DR 16s? Thanks in advance.
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skeettx
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 11:18 am  Reply with quote
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Location: Amarillo, Texas

Not quite so easy, bummer.

The SP is a tapered base wad.

What load are you wanting to substitute for?

What hull?

Can you not get Rem SP wads?

Any where near Amarillo?

Mike


Last edited by skeettx on Sat Jul 11, 2020 1:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
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stevesavage
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 11:39 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 13 Apr 2017
Posts: 150

Federal hulls, 1 ounce lead loads, 22 grains herco. Either federal or Winchester primers. Six point crimp. I don’t have any Remington wads Trying to use up what I have. Live in N.W. Georgia.
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skeettx
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 1:24 pm  Reply with quote
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Fed 16 Plas 1 oz. Herco 21.5 Fed 209A BPI SG 16 1220 8,000 Ballistic Products

Fed 16 Plas 1 oz. Herco 23.5 Fed 209A BPI SG 16 1275 9,000 Ballistic Products

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Old colonel2
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:24 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Jun 2020
Posts: 224

As noted by prior posters, not a good substitute out there.

Other than the R16 which is simply the 1 1/8 SP 16 with a smaller shot cup not much out there in terms of options

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Hammer bill
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2020 4:44 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 815

Either one of the claybuster AA will work. I find the 7/8 wad works for the 1oz load. I take it ur talking about the remmy hull?
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fn16ga
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2020 5:29 am  Reply with quote
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The Sg16 wad would be a better choice for the Federal hull.
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2020 11:00 am  Reply with quote
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It's important to state the real reason most people should not use the Remington SP16 and R16 in the thin-walled hulls that most 16's are today, e.g. Federal, Cheddites, Fiocchi, Martignoni and all the brands that use one or the other, such as Estate, Rio, NobelSport, Winchester, Herter's, B&P, RST, Kent, Boss, Clever, Hull, etc. The Remington hulls for which these Remington Power Piston wads (SP16 and R16) were designed have much thicker walls, so those wads are smaller in diameter -- so small they often don't seal well in thin-walled hulls. Yes, you can fiddle the Remington wads into a functional condition with the thin-walled hulls, but it is fiddling, and most folks that reload are not either interested, willing or able to do the fiddling.

In fact, some 20 gauge wad units intended for the European thin-walled hulls are a better fit in Remington 16 gauge hulls than Remington 16 gauge wads are in European 16 gauge hulls. You can find several loads from the Low Pressure Group that use Gualandi 20 ga. wads. The point is, those Remington hulls (RGL and green Express) are quite thick, and the wads designed for them (SP16 and R16) are a lot smaller in diameter in the over-powder cup area. In thin-walled hulls, it is better to use the several European wads available with large over-powder cups and anti-powder-migration rings. If you simply must have a 5/8 or 3/4 oz load, the DR-16 works well in thin-walled hulls. It was intentionally designed for thin-walled hulls, though it can be squeezed into a Remington hull.

The old original Winchester AA's are also quite small in the over-powder cup diameter, as the compression-formed hulls for which they were designed tapered to quite a thick wall. Old WW AA's work well in Remington hulls, and the Remington wads work well in old WW compression-formed hulls. The Winchester wad is no longer made. Now Claybusters makes a WW AA 16 gauge clone plus another lower-capacity one of similar design, but they have been made with a larger diameter over-powder cup so they can be used not only with the Remington hulls and old AA's, but also with the thin-walls.

So without fiddling to some degree (some say they work in thin-walls if you use large-grain powders like Unique or Blue Dot, and apply enough pressure to expand the over-powder cup), R16's and SP16's are really only good for Remington hulls and WW compression-formed hulls. Same with old original WWAA16 wads -- if you stumble onto a bag or two.
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Hammer bill
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2020 1:02 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
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Maximumsmoke is correct on all accounts. I'm a fiddler and do expand the AA over powder cup that contains a very tight seal. However I do that before loading. So I don't need to use excessive pressure on the wad. I buy my wads 5000 at a time and keep 20,000 on hand cause I shoot alot of trap. Mainly games cause I can pay for most of my shootings with my winnings. Sometimes have 20 to 70 dollars left over. Usually keep 60 to 80 bags of shot on hand. That way I can watch for deals. Month ago I bought shot for 34$.
So I need to keep alot of hulls on hand. I used alot of cheddite, Rio,s Feds, Herters, winchesters( cheddits) the Winchester AS compression hull, about 2000 left.
My load averages 1250 fps. I use that load with 7.5 shot for 16 yards back to the shootoff. Many times 35 to 50 yrs back. That load does it all. I hit many small clubs every month. It's been slower this year because of the phony covid-19. But I just follow the rules wherever. The claybuster wad is so much better priced that BY making it work is much more economical. Wild Bill
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stevesavage
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2020 3:26 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 13 Apr 2017
Posts: 150

Great information. Should be valuable to a lot of shooters. Thanks
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casebro
PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 10:04 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 152
Location: San Diego

Speaking of which, I have 11 bags of sp16 that I am tired of fiddling with.

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flyfrod
PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:47 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 06 May 2020
Posts: 12
Location: Manheim, PA

I stumbled across this same problem when I was reloading new fiocchi hulls. The SP16 wads I could remove with my finger easily and I could see powder coming up past the wad. I switched over to the BPI SG16 with some felt in the shot cup to give me correct column height and I am getting beautiful crimps that I could not get before. I shot a few of the loads that had the SP16 wads and boy did they sound terrible and I ended up with grains of powder on me once I was done because the wads never created enough seal to burn the powder correctly. I'm testing my new loads out on some sporting clays this Thursday. I will be interesting to see how the old model 31 holds up to the Benellis and Berettas I will be shooting against.

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casebro
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 2:46 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 152
Location: San Diego

flyfrod wrote:
I stumbled across this same problem when I was reloading new fiocchi hulls. The SP16 wads I could remove with my finger easily and I could see powder coming up past the wad. I switched over to the BPI SG16 with some felt in the shot cup to give me correct column height and I am getting beautiful crimps that I could not get before. I shot a few of the loads that had the SP16 wads and boy did they sound terrible and I ended up with grains of powder on me once I was done because the wads never created enough seal to burn the powder correctly. I'm testing my new loads out on some sporting clays this Thursday. I will be interesting to see how the old model 31 holds up to the Benellis and Berettas I will be shooting against.


I don't think it is a matter of sealing the pressure in, it's powder getting past the powder cup during handling, then not burning. Search the site for "powder migration" . One trap club has a three mile wash board road, lots of migration bloopers. Other club, no problem on the first 4 clays stations, but by 5 they have been shaken in my shell bag. Bloopers Ahoy!

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