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can I use win w209 primers in herters hulls? usually I load rem gl hulls, but have been shooting up some of my stash of herters and want to reload them, hodgon shows a load recipe using universal, waa16 wads(using claybuster) and cheddite primers.

Joined: 27 Jan 2016 Posts: 490 Location: Oswego, Kansas

Yes you can use Win 209 primers and Cheddite 209primers interchanging as needed since the are the same heat rate. I have used Cheddite primers for years and they work fine.

Member Joined: 30 Nov 2011 Posts: 1696 Location: Minnesota

Yes to a Win 209 primer in Herters/Cheddite hull. That's all I've ever used.
NO to Universal in a Fed or Cheddite hull with AA16 wad. If you do a search here, you'll see warnings from me and others that even though Hodgdon published it you'll get migration and bloopers. The fix was to switch to the SG16 wad

the migration issue was my next question, you beat me to it, will DR16 wads also work? I have some.

Joined: 16 Jul 2015 Posts: 2125 Location: Hudson,Wy

There is a way to solve the migration issue with that wad, it just requires a little effort. Those are my favorite wads for a number of reasons, but they do fit loose in all but RGL's and WW CF's. I pre-flare the powder cup on all of mine by rolling the lip of the powder cup hard against the rim or a 12 or 10 ga hull.

Due to the type of plastic and depth of cup, the wads will maintain a flare long term. Sometimes I sit down with a whole bag of 500 and do them all while watching a movie. This trick however, does not work for Rem SP 16 wads, mainly because the powder cup is so shallow, rendering the potential amount of flare minimal.

Joined: 07 Sep 2011 Posts: 567 Location: wheeling, wv

Thanks Garhart, for telling us how to flare those Claybuster AA16 clones. I had loaded up a couple boxes of that Hogdon load, except I dropped to 7/8 oz in a 2 1/2" herters hull. I also snipped off about an 1/8" of the wad petals , so it would crimp better.
Alot of work, I know, but otherwise wasnt using those wads, have a couple bags, and they take up space. They are also cheaper and more readily available than the SG 16 and DR16 wads and made in the USA. The reloading gurus at the Parker site also cautioned against that Hogdon load for the same reasons. Going to give it another try.

Joined: 08 Feb 2009 Posts: 1308 Location: Western WA

Wyo, the wad conditioning might work for a while but I suspect the plastic has memory that will ultimately defeat the trick. Remember that the real danger is hot gas blowby (per John Matunas) which can leave a wad lodged in the barrel. If grains of powder can work their way past the seal, gas will follow as well. That’s why we should use euro wads with euro dimensioned hulls.

B.

Joined: 02 Feb 2011 Posts: 16 Location: Holland Michigan

I have been actually pleasantly surprised with how well the Herters hulls held up. The plastic is very thin, but its also very pliable. I usually lose hulls to embrittlement of the crimp area. The Herters would keep bending, I eventually lost them to case splitting, especially near the brass. I want to say I got over a dozen reloads on them using Green Dot at about 9000psi.

Joined: 08 Feb 2009 Posts: 1308 Location: Western WA

Just a cautionary note - with a little fine tuning of the crimp station, it is possible to reload some Cheddite style hulls almost indefinitely without splitting the case mouth. This is not necessarily a good idea for two reasons. First, the interior of the case becomes very rough after several reloads, which likely increases wad friction and pressure. Second, the plastic weakens after several reloads, and parts of the hull can tear off during firing. In face, the entire plastic hull can tear away from the metal base during firing and fly out the barrel down range. This isn’t a good thing obviously. The practical limit for reloads seems to be about a half dozen, before these new problems start emerging. Due caution should be observed with these reloads.

B.

Joined: 21 Mar 2019 Posts: 523 Location: Texas

brewster:
If your getting 6 reloads out of any hull, why push it to the limit and cut them shorter or do this or that. On the 6th reload let them lay where they fall if not in the bush. I'm sure like me you have more hulls then you will ever shoot in a life time, why fiddle with it. My opinion of fiocchi hulls, much better hull out there, I don't waste my time with them. I would rather spend time behind the gun then at the reloading bench. Way to many options out there.

Joined: 02 Feb 2011 Posts: 16 Location: Holland Michigan

Yeah if I notice any splitting in the hull I toss it right out now. Never had just the base remaining in my gun yet but did have a base hanging attached to less then half the hull before. Definitely don't want to be shooting improvised slugs at the range! That being said a lot of guys load far more then 6 times per hull. Especially if they have Win AA hulls.