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Joined: 24 Mar 2016 Posts: 72 Location: Louisiana

I am planning on going back to shooting 16 gauge for everything. I loaded lead 12 gauge lead shells for years. Any advice on where to start loading 16 in steel loadings? Any reloading books you recommend? Any presses that I should consider or will I have to use a shot dipper for each shell in lieu of charge bar/bushings? Thanks.

Joined: 03 Sep 2014 Posts: 398 Location: Rochester, MN

I do all my 16 gauge reloading on a MEC 600 press.

There is only one steel shot recipe that I use. It is load #50204 here:

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/VP80%20data.pdf

It is a very effective load in shot sizes #6 to #2.

I highly recommend that you get a reliable electronic scale for weighing shot and powder charges.

The load John Singer has recommended is a high velocity, "heavy" load. Should be good for ducks, pheasants, etc.

If your intended game is quail, doves, grouse, etc., a variation of this load using Steel powder in Federal, Winchester straight wall hulls, and Remington hulls (which I avoid, as pressure is the highest of the 3 hulls) is found in Lyman's No. 5 reloading manual. This ~1300 fps/~8500-10,000 psi load uses 22.5 grains of Steel powder in Federal hulls, 22.0 grains in Win hulls, and 21.0 grains in Rem hulls with essentially the same components as the BP's #50204 load, except Fed 209A primers are used.

Some of the names in the Lyman manual have changed--the multi-metal wad, was a PT 1680 for a while and is now a VP80 for example.

I have used this load in a variety of straight walled hulls for about 15 years with great success on quail, doves, etc. My go-to load for smaller game birds when non-tox shot is required.

Joined: 16 Jul 2015 Posts: 2125 Location: Hudson,Wy

Loading steel is a bit different than lead, so I will share a few details.

First, the stuff is loaded in wads with no cushion section...so wad/ shot column height must be just right for good crimps. This will mean selecting recipes that either come out just right or use of fillers/ spacers to achieve good crimps.

Second, you will often be using larger sizes than with lead and these larger pellets like to jam/ bridge in the drop tube. This gets messy when it all cuts loose after the press is returned to the "handle up" position! Mec sells a kit with a wider mouth shot bottle, larger internal diameter 2 stage drop tube, and larger internal diameter ram tube. It's great for 12 & 10 ga. but no use for 16 ga. since it will not fit inside 16 ga. components.

However, there is one trick that is like magic for curing shot bridging. Lift the press handle until the bottom of the ram tube is just in the mouth of the hull before dropping the shot charge. This will require disconnecting the auto charge bar rod if you use a progressive press. Shot jamming is primarily caused by large pellets "impact packing" in the tube when they come to a stop after dropping. This doesn't often occur if the tube is not seated at the bottom of the shot cup. However, there is a limit to how big of a pellet you can run through the press. Don't bother trying to use shot bigger that #2 in a 16 ga. press, it will lead to aggravation and inconsistent charges.

Third, steel pellets tend to stick in the bottom of a wad, so a layer of pellets may stay in the wad after firing and not be part of the pattern. An easy cure, one that also reduces shot bridging/ jamming, is to treat the pellets with silicone spray before loading them. I spray mine in a dish before I transfer the shot to storage bottles or the shot bottle. It doesn't take a lot to do the job. Once the silicone dries it will not cause problems with powder in the drop tube of a single stage press, unlike other lubes will.

Fourth, steel shot doesn't deform and the wads lack cushion sections, so pressure waves are not partially absorbed like with lead and lead shot wads. This means that load data needs to be followed closely. Small changes will result in much larger pressure changes than with lead shot and lead shot wads. Bear in mind that charge bars will throw different weight charges based on shot size. The size of cavity that throws 1 oz. of #2 steel will throw a noticeably heavier charge of #7 or #6 steel. I use an adjustable charge bar so I can adjust accordingly rather than having a lot of extra charge bars.

Don't let any of this scare you away, it's all easy enough to deal with. I loaded a case of steel shot ammo today. I've been doing so since the mid 1990's.

Member Joined: 06 Oct 2007 Posts: 2346 Location: West MI

All good advice, the tip regarding the MEC Steel kit is good but again not very useful to 16ga re-loaders (works great in a 10ga Steelmaster press though) due to the drop tube size BUT the wider mouth opening in the shot bottle is valid and can easily be mimicked by drilling out the mouth of a spare bottle or simply buying the steel bottle.

Reiterating, a good scale to verify most drops, more so than lead. Adjustable charge bars are great if wanting play, customizing (constricting w/tape or opening with file) a static bar works if planning on finding a pet load and never changing.

John, I like the speed of that BP recipe. It calls for buffer but doesn't call out the type or amount. Do you simply fill to the top of shot and fold? OR have a specific amount you add? Type?

Joined: 03 Sep 2014 Posts: 398 Location: Rochester, MN

I have never used a buffer with that load. I do not recall the need for a filler either, even with #6 steel.

If I need a filler for such a load, I usually use oatmeal.

Joined: 03 Sep 2014 Posts: 398 Location: Rochester, MN

When loading 16 gauge, I do not use the charge bar for either powder or shot drops.

For powder, I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure. I check and adjust each charge before loading into the shell.

For shot, I tare the shell with the wad installed on my scale. I then pour shot to top of the wad. Reweigh, and add or remove shot as needed.

Joined: 24 Mar 2016 Posts: 72 Location: Louisiana

For reloading steel, what is your cost per box of you have hulls already?

Member Joined: 06 Oct 2007 Posts: 2346 Location: West MI

Thanks John, BTW; layout boat is still working like a champ, thanks again!

Sorry for the captain obvious response....depends on what you paid for your components. This helps...

https://www.mecoutdoors.com/benefits-and-savings-calculator

Joined: 16 Jul 2015 Posts: 2125 Location: Hudson,Wy

I am loading 16 ga. steel shot for about $7.50 per box. This figure is based on steel shot @ $20 per 10 lb. bag, wads @ $19-20 per bag of 250, primers @ $4 per 100, and powder @ $25 per pound.

In actuality, I bought most of my powder and primers well before current pricing woes, but used these figures to give a more accurate price based on today's pricing depending on where you buy. Obviously, if price gouging is occurring in your area, the price per box will be higher.

DWR353,

This is a response to your question above. The MEC calculator will be a wonderful tool for you if you continue to head toward loading your own steel shot. Given the availability of components at present, and the wildly fluctuating costs of same, it will be even more useful as you go forward.

To give you some idea of what I normally have loaded a box of steel 16 gauge loads for I will provide the following:

Primers: @ $30 a thousand, a box of shells would result in $0.75
STEEL powder: @ $25 a pound, a box would be $2.32, given 25 grains each
Std. steel shot: @ $24/10 lbs. currently BPI, inc. 50 ib. shipping special @7/8 oz. each = $3.28
PT1680 wads: @12.99/250 plus est. $5 shipping? = $1.80

This would total to about $8.15 a box, and is close to what I have in them.

However, as you are aware, most steel commercial 16 gauge loads are much higher than that if available ($20+) and there is limited shot choice. Of course, crazy prices for primers and powder at present may greatly increase this estimate. On the other hand, a brick of new primers I recently bought at an estate sale for $15 and 2 bottles of STEEL powder at $20 each will reduce it. The cost of shipping on such items as steel shot, Hazmat for powder/primers, etc. could dramatically increase costs; local availability could greatly reduce it. So. . . . . to make a long story short, your cost of reloading steel could vary considerable, and is wholly dependent on cost of components. At "reasonable" component costs, however, you could save quite a bit of money per box, as well as expand the shot size selection for 16 gauge.

Joined: 24 Mar 2016 Posts: 72 Location: Louisiana

Thanks

Joined: 03 Sep 2014 Posts: 398 Location: Rochester, MN

Joined: 24 Mar 2016 Posts: 72 Location: Louisiana

Great link from MEC. It is very helpful. I am fortunate in that I have 2 flats of 16 steel shells and around 3 flats of lead 8s and #6 lead. I will pick up the spent bills as I use them for reloading.