16ga.com ~ View topic - MEC 650 Conversion

So I picked up a MEC 650 12 ga (as well as a single stage 12 ga & a 20 ga older progressive) thinking I could convert it to 16 ga, but alas, the baseplate would have to be changed to even think about it.

I know this is probably a Longshot (pun intended) but does anybody have a 16 ga baseplate they are willing to part with? Perhaps in the hoarders closet for a project that never will be completed?

I do not intend to load 12 ga for target, I have a steelmaster which I will eventually use once my supply of goose loads dwindles, plus the other single stage 12 ga which I have not figured out what to do with yet.

Otherwise I will just sell it, I would offer it here first, then ebay or similar.

Part 59 A is available from MEC

https://www.mecoutdoors.com/mec-650n-parts

That is what you want? Right?

MIke

OK Citori 16, -- I've made that conversion before. Get some #12 solid copper wire -- about a foot of it. Strip off the insulation and very carefully form it into a circle that just fits inside the rim recess of that 12 gauge base. Use some MEK or alcohol to carefully clean and dry the rim recess. Mix up some J-B Weld and put a small, neat bead of that into that rim recess. Use a screwdriver to trowel the J-B Weld into place. Take your time and make it smooth and not excessive. Then set that copper wire into the rim recess and and make sure it is pressed down well. Carefully scrape off excess J-B Weld . . . . and Bob's your uncle! Saves buying a quite costly part from MEC.

Joined: 04 Mar 2019 Posts: 1843 Location: Central ND

It is the outer base plate, that is riveted to the base. I got one a long time ago from a parted out 8567-16 gauge Grabber. If you try to use the 12 gauge plate the hulls drift to the outside and misalign at the stations. Back when I converted this 9000G12, MEC would not sell me the base plate.

You have to knock the rivets out. I bolted the new base plate in place with some allen cap screws.

This machine started life as a 9000G12 it is now a 9000G16

Skeetx, I think Citori16 is talking about the the base of the reloader, part 58 on the diagram you reference. 58 is the base, and it isn't even on the parts list, though it is on the diagram. My note on conversion is in reference to that base, part 58. Part 59 on the diagram is the shell carrier.

Now . . . . Just one more thing. What vintage is that 650?? Newer versions have a black plate riveted to the base that forms the recess that guides the outside of the cartridge rim as it progresses around the carriage. The base part used today on all MEC progressives is the same for all gauges. The black plate mentioned above is specific to the gauge -- the size of the cartridge base. Old MEC progressives (500, Super 600 and 650) originally had gauge specific bases that had that rim recess feature machined in. My conversion with the copper wire fixes that without having to replace the whole base. That method works for the new versions also, however . . .

There is another way to convert the newer ones. Though it is not listed in MEC catalogs or diagrams, that riveted-on black plate is available, and cheap. Call MEC Customer Service and tell them you need a new 16 gauge plate. They'll send one right out, rivets included. I suspect I'm not at all the first one to make this request! Then all you've got to do is grind and/or drill out the existing rivets and replace the 12 gauge plate with the new 16 gauge one . . . . Just like new!

Cheers!

Ahh! Thanks all! Great info. Have plenty of AWG12. I will check for the rivets, age, etc. when I get home from work. Maybe a 8567 base plate can be found or I have the black plate, will have to look more closely.

Thinking I should scrape/sand off the paint for JB Weld for adherence if I go that route?

I converted a 12 ga 650 to 16 ga using the dies from a 16 ga 600 jr. The only thing I needed from Mec was the 16 ga rotating shell plate. The plate is still available from Mec - cost about $22.00. It works like a charm.

Tom

Top-Cat, yes I was just comparing part numbers on the 650, 8567 & the 600 jr. I'm thinking I could get a used 16ga 600 jr to swap parts with for the 650 and save a little cash.

I want to keep my original 600 jr intact, or at least keep the better one. Very handy for working up loads, but becomes a chore when loading 100 shells for targets every week.

Well, it’s the older type…now I have my weekend project. Have not figured out how to submit a photo but it’s a 650 ‘82.

Hafta get me some JB weld now…

Thank you MaxSmoke, got the wire epoxied in & cleaned up. Now just need to get the 16 ga parts from MEC, hopefully still in production.

I took pics of the process in case someone else wants to go down this road. Once I figure out how to post them I will add here.[/img]

Update: Sorry, no pics yet, tried to use Flickr but that has issues.

So I found that #14 AWG works better for me, the 12 was too hard to work with so I had troubles getting it perfectly circular, must’ve been a harder alloy. I used the imprint of the 12 in the JB weld to lay the 14 in, and I can remove a shell from each station fairly easily without wrecking the wire. Had to scrape just a bit, and I know that the base is now un-plumb, but it works.

The 16 ga parts were not cheap, and starting from scratch for adjustments was a chore. I am definitely faster on my single-stage right now, but I assume that will change with familiarity. I do like that extra stage for the radius on the crimps, not that I need it for the Citori, but it cleans things up nicely.

I made about 50 dummy loads using spent primers and buffer for powder for rough adjustments, then tweaked the final adjustments with a real recipe.

I just ran my first 2 boxes of reloads, only dumped 3 powder loads, and maybe 2 shot loads, though there were higher numbers of shot-in-powder loads due to forgetting to out the wad isn…I’m so much more used to seeing that station in front of me. Either way, I’ve got some nice crimps on the Federal hulls.

All in all, considering the fact that the reloader was free, I think it’s been a worthwhile endeavor. I would not recommend buying a used 12 to convert unless you have all the parts for 16 already. Without that, you approach the cost of a newer grabber, and unless you are a glutton for punishment, or very familiar with the 650, you will definitely spend some time adjusting, filing, sanding, etc.

If people are interested I will post some pics.

Interested, please post pictures

Mike

Joined: 16 Jul 2015 Posts: 2126 Location: Hudson,Wy

When I did my conversion I used a 20 ga. 650 and very carefully marked the radius then hand cut everything with a Dremel cutting disc.

However, since people want to try going the other route with a 12 ga. 650 I will make a suggestion. How about finding an automotive piston ring that measures the approximate size? They can be trimmed and compressed somewhat if the size is close. One could then solder or braze it to the base.

Great idea! I was actually thinking of having a ring made, but piston ring did not come to mind, that would have been the way. Likewise I had a bunch of other thoughts after I finished, hindsight being 20/20, like using a roll of electrical tape sized to the proper radius to shape the wire, instead of the Remington wipes can I used.

Still trying to get pics up. I may just have to get photobucket, Flickr & Amazon pics do not seem to work.

Member Joined: 06 Oct 2007 Posts: 2349 Location: West MI

try https://www.jpgbox.com/submit.html?

jpgbox is fairly easy to use... browse pics, upload, copy link in "for forums" window, paste on here....[URL=https://www.jpgbox.com/page/69483_600x400/]

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