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I'm not complaining about the description in any way of the Sterly I recently bought at Gulf Coast Guns. I am merely sharing what I have discovered is part of the risks of buying an older gun. The left (and only the left) bbl misfired twice in 50 rounds the other day at the skeet range. I was using RST 2 1/2" 7/8oz loads. The dent in the primer was rather shallow on the rounds that failed. By now I am sure that it is more than likely the firing pin and not the hammer spring that is the culprit. However, I won't know for sure without further study. I would greatly appreciate the name of a (Fox) competent gunsmith, preferably in the Texas area whom you would recommend. Also, any personal experience with such a problem would be welcome. I am already looking at trying different ammo as a temporary solution to the symptom, although finding a solution to the problem is foremost on my mind.

Thanks in advance,]
Marc

Send a PM to Rev Doc Drew. That guy has got to have the largest database for exactly what you're looking for. Trust me, he's the man.

When you buy 80 year old guns, you sometimes take your chances. If you buy from a reputable dealer, he may offer to repair it for you. If you buy off the internet, the shipping may be more than the repair.

Good luck and let me know how you made out. I too just picked up a new/old Sterly. Mine is from 1914. I wish it had longer barrels. Or I wish I was a better shot with 26" barrels.

Joined: 18 Mar 2007 Posts: 280 Location: Southern Ohio

If you're speaking of a Sterlingworth (Sterly?), they don't have firing pins per se, the Strikers are on the hammers, this problem is uncommon, and is likely build-up of dirt and dried oil. Any good smith should handle the problem.. MDC

Member Joined: 01 Dec 2006 Posts: 524

Heck, that problem can even happen with newer used guns. Easy fix.

I thought I would take a look at the internals, but I am having trouble removing the stock. This is a Savage era Sterly, and I am missing something very basic. I removed the trigger guard screw and the hidden bolt coverd by the trigger guard. Also, I removed the upper bolt that is partially covered by the release lever. The stock is loose, but will not come off. What am I missing?

Marc: I hope this helps

First you must remove the sears so that you can pull the stock off the frame.
Remove the triggerguardscrews and trigger guard. The guard will screw out of the floor-plate. Next, remove the tang screws, both top and bottom. Remove the screw in the floor plate, lift the floor plate out of the frame by lifting with the triggers and tapping around it with a soft hammer, at this point, BE CAREFUL, there's a SMALL coil spring and the top lever trip pin in the hole that the floor plate screw came out of. The spring may fall out on it's own when the frame is inverted, (and probably will so BE CAREFUL!!!)) if not use a small wire to pull it out. The trip pin will stay in, unless the top lever is moved back to the center position.
I never remove the pin entirely. I simply push it far enough in to let the one sear drop, then I push the pin the other direction until the second sear falls out. I leave the pin in the gun. Don't forget to tighten the small set screw that keeps the pin from moving when you reassembel the gun.
You can now see the sear tails are against the wood when you pull the stock back. next, remove the tiny screw that retains the sear pin, using a small drift punch to drive out the sear pin. Tip the heel of the stock down to clear the safety mechanism and it should come off.
NOTE: There is a safety push rod in a small hole in the head of the stock that is easy to lose.
This will get the butt stock off and should be more than enough disassembly for a through cleaning and re-oiling.

Joined: 18 Mar 2007 Posts: 280 Location: Southern Ohio

Any time I take a gun apart that has pins thru the frame, I always put the pins in a 35mm film tube andstore them in the freezer. When you're ready to re-assemble, you can push them thru by hand with very little pressure. MDC

Member Joined: 01 Dec 2006 Posts: 524

The freeze idea is bad because the cold, when put back into the gun will star condensation at best and the rusting at worst. Unless you bring the pin back to room temp or whatever homeostasis with the gun's ambient temp is.

Doc, MD, Jig,

Thanks for the detailed information. I must proceed with extreme caution, even though it sounds very do-able.

Marc

Marc: open the gun to cock the hammers, remove the forend and brls, and proceed with 'fear and trembling.' I personally do not attempt to remove the stock of a Sterly OR (and especially) a LC. It's not so much the disassembly, as the reassembly. 'A man's gotta know his limitations' Wink

Joined: 18 Mar 2007 Posts: 280 Location: Southern Ohio

jig the pins are oiled, Monday or Tuesday, I'll check an Ithaca that I did about 10 years ago and let you know.. MDC