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<  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading  ~  reloading with fiber wads...(without plastic)
britgun
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:33 pm  Reply with quote
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....anybody have any experience? I have a bunch of Alcan wads, including some of the waxed "overpowder" sealing ones, which are then followed by a cushioning wad..... I would like to see if the patterns on Mod and Full chokes open any without the plastic cup, giving more of a true "old school" pattern....

I have some Win AA-type hulls.... also, black Rem, and some of those paper hulls coming.....

Any experience, advice, recipes would be greatly appreciated.... anybody else mess with this biodegradable stuff?

Are pressures generally higher or lower with this stuff ( compared to the same powder charges in plastic).... anybody know??

Thanks,

Duncan

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Tulsey
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 1:49 am  Reply with quote



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I don't have any data in front of me, but plastic wads are more efficient so powder charges are reduced with plastic wads. I am thinking 10 percent reduction with plastic wads, but that is from memory and could be off.
I personally would save AA type hulls for good loads and use less desirable hulls for your cardboard loads. Pretty much years ago once you had the data for the powder charge for the amoutn of shot you were using, you just used a cardboad wad over the powder and then whatever combination of filler wads to give you the right height. Your choke should be more open with the components you mentioned. If you are trying to get even more open patterns the Spread R insert is worth using. I will see if I can find some old data in some old books at home.,
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britgun
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 6:08 am  Reply with quote
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Tulsey wrote:
I don't have any data in front of me, but plastic wads are more efficient so powder charges are reduced with plastic wads. I am thinking 10 percent reduction with plastic wads, but that is from memory and could be off.
I personally would save AA type hulls for good loads and use less desirable hulls for your cardboard loads. Pretty much years ago once you had the data for the powder charge for the amoutn of shot you were using, you just used a cardboad wad over the powder and then whatever combination of filler wads to give you the right height. Your choke should be more open with the components you mentioned. If you are trying to get even more open patterns the Spread R insert is worth using. I will see if I can find some old data in some old books at home.,



...sure appreciate it....

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16'er
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:03 am  Reply with quote
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I too am interested in finding out about this type of reloading. I'm new to reloading, but I have a fixed choked stevens which I'd like pattern with some Mild fiber wad reloads to see what it can do... I have also read that Spreader inserts can cause some irregularities in patterns, so was thinking this might be a better option. Alos like the idea of trying the O'le Fashion way!

I have just mailed my check to join the LPG, and was hoping there would be some data there. Also is it possible to remove the petals from a plastic wad and create a Brush wad? I ask because I noticed there are plastic brush wads availible in other gauges, designed to give even open patterns..
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Slidehammer
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:34 am  Reply with quote
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britgun wrote:
....anybody have any experience? I have a bunch of Alcan wads, including some of the waxed "overpowder" sealing ones, which are then followed by a cushioning wad..... I would like to see if the patterns on Mod and Full chokes open any without the plastic cup, giving more of a true "old school" pattern....

I have some Win AA-type hulls.... also, black Rem, and some of those paper hulls coming.....

Any experience, advice, recipes would be greatly appreciated.... anybody else mess with this biodegradable stuff?

Are pressures generally higher or lower with this stuff ( compared to the same powder charges in plastic).... anybody know??

Thanks,

Duncan


Well Duncan..... A few here may have started reloading when this was our only choice...
To this day my very best 16 gauge reloads incorporate fiber fillers although I use a plastic over-powder cup and either a shot wrapper or shot cup like Federal uses in factory loads..
There seems to be a rumor around that bare shot really opens patterns... Yes it does some, but no where near what now some type in their posts! Even seeing these recommendations to cut off wad petals for huge patterns! Some need to actually shoot some patterns! Spreader inserts are the best to open patterns where most want them. What fiber columns can accomplish is better shot distribution as almost all plastic wads tend to core shoot some in their pellet distribution.
Your paper hulls are the best for your Alcan wads. Federal hulls or Fiocchi or Cheddite plastic are fine too. Straight walled and the original nominal I.D. in other words.
Remington blacks have abnormally thick and non-standard walls... Your Alcan wad collection would be too tight...
IF you have some Winchester fiber wads and don't use the hard nitro type card over the powder then the AA hull can be used. (Probably the black Rems too, but I haven't tried it.) Winchester fiber wads are more easily compressed being a softer more pliable material. Winchester loaded them this way for that matter, with a special cupped cardboard over-powder seal and a shot wrapper of 10 mil polyethyene..
Pressures will be lower with cardboard/fiber columns all things being equal. Things like wad pressure, which today many think doesn't matter; all of a sudden will again! Old data will have you in the ball park using the paper hulls. But you should have them tested to be sure. I would recommend PB powder for loads of 1oz or less. It is well behaved at the lower pressures and less sensitive to soft loads with the "gas leaking" dynamics of the old wad columns that we don't contend with (as much) with modern one piece plastic wads.

Slidehammer


Last edited by Slidehammer on Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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ColoradoPaul
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:38 am  Reply with quote
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Interesting! I asked the same question a few weeks back and got no response. I should rephrase that, there were no responses that actually addressed my question.

There are a few loads listed in BP’s 16g Reloading Manual. Also, there are a few in the low pressure group’s data. Just the other day I sent off some 1 oz loads to Tom Armbrust for testing. PM me if you want the details when the test results get back..

PMP
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mdoerner
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:02 am  Reply with quote
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For those of you who don't know me, I'm one of the guys from the 16 gauge reloading group who's working on some "cup wad' loads that essintially duplicates the components from Winchester's Super-X line from the 1950's (the era before the plastic wad).

The thing I've noticed the most when using the fiber wad stack is more leading (whether using hard or soft shot) in the forcing cone area when not using a plastic wad or shot wrap. Other than this, they crush clays just as well as their modern counterparts. I'm thinking of lubricating my barrels with a wax based lubricant (like bore butter) to see if that will cut down on the leading a bit. I'm thinking the oil gets burnt off after a few shots, leaving lead to steel contact.

Other than this, they seem to work well. FWIW.

Mike Doerner
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woodcock
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 9:57 am  Reply with quote
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Duncan--Slidehammer's got it. Federal hulls will be a better 'fit
for those Alcan wads. Stick to one ounce loads and buy a couple of new phosphor-bronze or "Tornado" bore brushes. PM sent.
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Slidehammer
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:18 am  Reply with quote
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mdoerner wrote:
The thing I've noticed the most when using the fiber wad stack is more leading (whether using hard or soft shot) in the forcing cone area when not using a plastic wad or shot wrap. Other than this, they crush clays just as well as their modern counterparts. I'm thinking of lubricating my barrels with a wax based lubricant (like bore butter) to see if that will cut down on the leading a bit. I'm thinking the oil gets burnt off after a few shots, leaving lead to steel contact.

Other than this, they seem to work well. FWIW.

Mike Doerner


Mike,

Are you using the ring waxed fiber wads? Most available today are sans any lubricant...... Circle Fly makes ring waxed wads, even using old Alcan equipment.
Alcan and Winchester both lubricated their wads back when you could still buy them. This cuts down the leading and even eliminates it (in rare occasions) with a glass smooth bore.
A 10 mil polyethylene wrapper (a la Mark 5) will eliminate the lead and improve patterns as well. They are simple to cut but require an additional hand operation to install. The hardest thing is to find 10 mil plastic! For bigger size shot I prefer a shot cup. Usually I'll appropriate one from a remington wad with my Stanley knife....
I to have made the Winchester type cup wads from various materials with good results. Time wise, a plastic over powder again cut from a wad will suffice.... Unless a nostalgic duplication is wanted that is. Winchester had great results with their fiber stacks.... A LOT LONGER THAN MANY REALIZE...
A pain? Sure it is...... But I consider the 16 an overlooked child and will spare no effort for my loads to cause someone to say: "Is that a 16 gauge you're shooting?"

Slidehammer
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britgun
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:30 am  Reply with quote
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Slidehammer wrote:
mdoerner wrote:
The thing I've noticed the most when using the fiber wad stack is more leading (whether using hard or soft shot) in the forcing cone area when not using a plastic wad or shot wrap. Other than this, they crush clays just as well as their modern counterparts. I'm thinking of lubricating my barrels with a wax based lubricant (like bore butter) to see if that will cut down on the leading a bit. I'm thinking the oil gets burnt off after a few shots, leaving lead to steel contact.

Other than this, they seem to work well. FWIW.

Mike Doerner


Mike,

Are you using the ring waxed fiber wads? Most available today are sans any lubricant...... Circle Fly makes ring waxed wads, even using old Alcan equipment.
Alcan and Winchester both lubricated their wads back when you could still buy them. This cuts down the leading and even eliminates it (in rare occasions) with a glass smooth bore.
A 10 mil polyethylene wrapper (a la Mark 5) will eliminate the lead and improve patterns as well. They are simple to cut but require an additional hand operation to install. The hardest thing is to find 10 mil plastic! For bigger size shot I prefer a shot cup. Usually I'll appropriate one from a remington wad with my Stanley knife....
I to have made the Winchester type cup wads from various materials with good results. Time wise, a plastic over powder again cut from a wad will suffice.... Unless a nostalgic duplication is wanted that is. Winchester had great results with their fiber stacks.... A LOT LONGER THAN MANY REALIZE...
A pain? Sure it is...... But I consider the 16 an overlooked child and will spare no effort for my loads to cause someone to say: "Is that a 16 gauge you're shooting?"

Slidehammer


Slide, I will be using the ring waxed wads by Alcan over the powder, then the fiber base (Felton Blue streak) over that (have various sizes for various shot loads and hull capacities), like 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2), then an overshot card, followed by fold crimp (for starters).... plan on using copperplate shot...

Duncan


Last edited by britgun on Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:49 am; edited 1 time in total

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Dave Miles
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:36 am  Reply with quote
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Slide, I will be using the ring waxed wads by Alcan over the powder, then the fiber base (Felton Blue streak) over that (have various sizes for various shot loads and wad capacities), like 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2), then an overshot card, followed by fold crimp (for starters).... plan on using copperplate shot...

Duncan, why use an overshot card with a fold crimp, unless you need to take up space?

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mdoerner
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:38 am  Reply with quote
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Oh yeah...I know.

But Craig @ Circle Fly doesn't sell ring waxed cards directly to the public, just ammunition manufacturers (I know, I've conversed with him about this before.) I've also thought about melting some bore butter and lubing my own nitro cards (actually, that was Craig's Idea) to push lubricant into the forcing cone as each round is fired.

Anyhoo, I'm also thinking about coming up with a "pattern" or "template" to recreate the old Alcan "Kwik-Sert" polyethylene shot wraps of the late 60's/early 70's, but I'm also trying to eliminate as much plastic as I can from my loads over the grounds that I hunt as well. I would only use it as needed....FWIW.

Mike Doerner
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britgun
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:51 am  Reply with quote
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Dave M. wrote:
Slide, I will be using the ring waxed wads by Alcan over the powder, then the fiber base (Felton Blue streak) over that (have various sizes for various shot loads and wad capacities), like 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2), then an overshot card, followed by fold crimp (for starters).... plan on using copperplate shot...

Duncan, why use an overshot card with a fold crimp, unless you need to take up space?


ok, scratch that..... Smile

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britgun
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 10:52 am  Reply with quote
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mdoerner wrote:
Oh yeah...I know.

But Craig @ Circle Fly doesn't sell ring waxed cards directly to the public, just ammunition manufacturers (I know, I've conversed with him about this before.) I've also thought about melting some bore butter and lubing my own nitro cards (actually, that was Craig's Idea) to push lubricant into the forcing cone as each round is fired.

Anyhoo, I'm also thinking about coming up with a "pattern" or "template" to recreate the old Alcan "Kwik-Sert" polyethylene shot wraps of the late 60's/early 70's, but I'm also trying to eliminate as much plastic as I can from my loads over the grounds that I hunt as well. I would only use it as needed....FWIW.

Mike Doerner



Mike, will those Alcan wax jobs suffice, in your opinion??

Duncan

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mdoerner
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 11:14 am  Reply with quote
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britgun wrote:
Mike, will those Alcan wax jobs suffice, in your opinion??

Duncan


They will work, but whether or not you get gas blow-by in the bore depends on the diameter of the bore relative to the wad. Remingtons and some Winchesters mic out at 0.672" whereas most 16 gauge bores mic out at 0.662". Hence my use of the cup wads. The waxed card should do better than the dry ones I'd imagine, but I haven't used them yet personally.

All that gas blow-by does is disrupt the pattern and possibly fuse some pellets together. Not a problem with a spreader load though.... Very Happy

Mike Doerner
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