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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 8:08 am  Reply with quote
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Location: NJ

I need some feedback from my fellow 16 ga'ers. I have always used regular lubricating oil (3 in One, Hoppe's, Outers, etc) for my firerams espcecially for the actions of auto loaders, pumps, etc. Recently during a gun cleaning session I decided to use WD-40 on the slide actions, bolts, and so forth on a couple of shotguns. I also used it on my Ruger Mark II auto loader. After a night at the range the little auto loader seemed to be free of the "gummy" feeling while working the bolt after about 200-300 rounds. Does anyone have any opinions regarding the pros-cons of using WD-40 as compared to regular gun oil?
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skeettx
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 8:32 am  Reply with quote
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Hello, WD-40 is a great penetrant, and is very useful in many applications. However it is hydroscopic and attracts water. You can use WD-40 to clean your guns but please end up using a fine lubricant to protect your firearms from rust. Today, I prefer to use a silicon based cleaner and lube for my firearms. Enjoy the day, Mike
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Dr. David Dabaco
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:55 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 31 Aug 2007
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Location: Lodi, CA

My understanding of WD-40 is that WD stood for "water displacement" and was designed by the missile industry to keep condensation out of critical areas???

Many people have stated that is should not be used in gun locks, actions, and other moving parts because it contains silicon that adheres to the metal and works great in the beginning as a protector and lubricant, but easily attracts dirt that eventually gums up the gun.

Most people say don't use it.
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H.H. Hipshot
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 10:57 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
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Location: TEXAS

WD-40 is ok as a cleaner, fingerprint remover, etc, but in my opinion it is not a good lubricant, especially for firearms. Tests I have read about say that it is a poor rust preventative.

Are your usual lubes causing malfunctions? If not, and the guns are working ok, then use one of the regular gun oils, which will have more viscosity and protect the metal surfaces against wear and galling.

Each person has his favorite, but I currently like Militech oil and grease. I also have Clenzoil on my bench for rust protection and light lube jobs.

Happy trails,

HHH

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Samuel_Hoggson
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 2:13 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 05 Feb 2008
Posts: 184
Location: Dover-Foxcroft, ME

I have used WD for years. WD is great for cleaning bores. It takes plastic and powder fouling out just about as well as anything else. It's inexpensive.

WD is fair to good as a preservative. Brownell's website used to have an article about this. Having read everything I can find on the subject I've concluded that it is no worse than "OK" as a short term preservative. It's not cosmoline, right? And it's inexpensive (did I mention that?).

WD is a very poor lubricant. The volatile elements go quickly, and the rest is pretty well devoid of lubricating properties. Worse, IME it tends to interact poorly with other lubricants.

WD is great for water displacement, of course.

If you want one product to clean, lubricate, and preserve Breakfree CLP is probably your best bang for buck.

Sam

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Ted Schefelbein
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 2:59 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 19 Jun 2004
Posts: 1480
Location: Mpls, MN.

WD-40 didn't fare too badly in the rust test, but, it is a lousy lubricant. When sprayed over good lubricant, the carriers in WD-40 happily evaporate the "lights" in oil, and cause it to turn into a varnish like material. Clean with WD-40, lubricate with oil, and don't mix the two.
It used to be a lot cheaper, too.
Best,
Ted


Last edited by Ted Schefelbein on Sat May 10, 2008 10:07 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Lefty Dude
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 4:06 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jun 2007
Posts: 302
Location: Maricopa County, Arizona

The Cowboy Action Shooters have found that AMSOIL GP lubricating spray oil works the best for the Winchester 97 pumps. They will usually give a few spirts in the action and on the slide before a match.

I use it on my 870/16 the same way, it is a very light lubrication. If I pull my trigger group and clean it, it gets the spray before I assy. it in the action.

I use WD-40 as a cleaner, never as a lubricant.

Try the AMSOIL GP lubricant it works. I am not a distributor or dealer for the product, I just know it works well. I think its about $5.00 a can.
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hoashooter
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 5:52 pm  Reply with quote
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WD 40 is at it's best when used a wasp,bumblebee killer Twisted Evil Use a gun oil for your guns ---Breakfree CLP Cool Wink
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fred lauer
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 6:26 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: western pa

After thorough cleaning, I shoot a light coat of WD40 in my old double actions, then blow it out with compressed air. Then finish up with a light oil and blow out again. This gets rid of crud, displaces moisture and finally lubricates and prevents rust. Too much WD or oil will collect dirt and cause you trouble. The best thing a guy can do is use the gun often and clean/lube it often.

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ALMODUX
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:57 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Alabama

Be careful with CLP....it tries to be three things, and ends up doing all three poorly. It attracts dirt/dust and holds carbon buildup, since it's a cleaner. It then migrates freely instead of staying where it's put, because it's a lube, and it allows rust where it shouldn't because it migrates as a lube, instead of staying where you put it as a protectant. Use a specific lube, a specific, cleaner, and a specific preservant, IMO. We found this out in the desert, quickly. Very Happy
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budrichard
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 1:18 am  Reply with quote
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Location: Wisconsin

As Ted already mentioned, the real problem with WD40 is varnish buildup especially over long term usage. I used to use it on everything, spraying my revolvers, every 6 months or so until a S&W cylinder refused to open on a K38. My local gunsmith, Dick Wells, Racine Wisconsin, since departed unfortuneately, was one of those people you meet once in a life time. He restocked Purdey's etc, booked Safari's and could make parts for defunct guns. Anyway, he gave me a punch, hammer and vise, told me to knock the little pin that retains the cylinder release out of the K38, remove the cylinder release, chuck it up in a lathe and burnish to remove the varnish build up from repeated WD40 usage. I guess he figured that doing the work myself would firmly implant the lesson on my mind. He then told me to use 'Sheath' for rust prevention. That was probably 30+ years ago and none of my firearms have had a similar problem since. 'Sheath' was made by Birchwood Casey and now goes by the name of 'Barricade'. Its all I use.-I guess I'm dating myself but I really miss those hours spent with Dick Wells in his shop learning about firearms. -Dick
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brdhnt
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 5:36 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 19 Aug 2005
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Location: Concordia, Kansas

SXS,

In many years of doing my own guns and in over 20 years as a police armorer, I saw just about everything available used (and misused). I still like to clean with Hoppe's #9, but have used a number of different oils over the years. About 10 years ago, I got introduced to Shooter's Choice FP-10 at a police armoer class. IT IS ALL I USE NOW!

Too many weapons are overlubricated. Probably 80% of the malfunctions I have seen on police, military and civilian ranges has been from OVERLUBRICATION, not under lubing.

Get some FP-10 and put it on with an eye dropper. I use a total of four drops on autoloading pistols and rifles and ten drops (6 on the magazine tube) on gas operated semi-auto shotguns. Over and unders and side by sides get one drop on the hinge pin and one drop on the trigger assembly when they are cleaned at the end of the season. I rarely recommend a specific product unless it has performed flawlessly, and FP-10 has on everything from M-16's to shotguns.

IME

TMB
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Last edited by brdhnt on Mon Feb 28, 2011 5:49 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:26 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 21 Mar 2008
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Location: NJ

Great feedback guys. I appreciate all of the information. Thanks. Smile
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Harry_Orwell
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:06 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 127
Location: Alabama

I happened upon an article that really liked this stuff and bought some. I've been using it for about a year and it seems to be doing everything its supposed to. It is one of those all-in-one products but does it a little differently. I was just wondering if any of you long time aficionados had a take on Prolix.

Harry

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Rabbitdog
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 8:04 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
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Location: Manhattan, Kansas

In the late 1950's , in an attempt to increase the take-off performance of the Mighty B-52 bomber, Boeing Aircraft Company found that injecting plane old water into the each of the eight engines during full power take-offs helped a bunch. Even today they use up to a thousand gallons of water per take-off to improve performance at full power.(Note the white smoke behind a B-52 on takeoff. It's water vapor and steam.) Needless to say, a lot of aircraft components get wet. WD-40 was the 40th formulation developed and tried as a Water displacement . ( Thus...WD-40 ) The critical components are covered with it and it helpes any water that contacts a component to be displaced and run or blow off.
As all cropdusters know, WD-40 is the best solvent there is to remove old, caked on "Duck" tape! WD-40 was never intended to be a lubricant. It does penetrate well and loosen stuck parts to some degree.( Mouse milk and Marvel Mystery Oil works better). WD-40 is great for eliminating water from a water soaked gun. Spray it on and in the action. Let it set an hour then blow it out with compressed air. Remove the WD-40 with Brake Clean.
I use a dry silicone spray for lubricant and Armor ALL to prevent exterior
rust. Works well to seal up the wood parts and prevents drying out.

Rabbitdog


Last edited by Rabbitdog on Mon May 12, 2008 1:50 pm; edited 1 time in total

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