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Could someone be kind enought to explain the difference between skived and unskived hulls ? How do they relate to crimping?

Thank you,
Glenn

Guest

Hi QS,

A skived hull has a slight taper at the mouth of the hull, that extends, on a 16 ga. about 1/4", from the mouth of the hull to just above the shoulder of the crimp.

It does make for a smoother crimp especially an 8 pt.

I am on the fence about whether I like a skived hull, as I have no problem using a 6 pt. crimp, which are not as sensitve as applying the 8 pt. variety. I have had unskived hulls last longer than their skived counterparts.

I believe that skiving is helpful, to us as reloaders on new hulls, once they are fired, there really isn't any difference.

As far as roll crimping goes I have never tried it with a skived hull(not much of a fan of roll crimping anyway), maybe another member has info on that.

QUAILSHOOTER,

As you are posting on the 16 gauge site I'll answer in reference to the 16....
Skiving by definition is a releaving of plastic from the I.D. out of the hull mouth. The material is removed in a tapered manner, ending 3/8" to maybe 1/2" deep. (varies with manf.)
The 16ga has sadly, gone to almost all 6 point crimps! Six point crimps in the 16 don't need skiving; thus saving a step in manufacture and $$$.. Remington is an exception, and still skives their hulls mainly because they use a considerably thicker hull wall and are "forced" to skiv because of this...
The main reason for skiving a "normal" hull thickness would be the application of an 8 point crimp... These used to be fairly common in 16 but have disappeared as of late.... Sad, as hull life seemed better with the 8 point.
If one reloads new hulls the eight point could be used. Crimp quality would improve by skiving in this case as it allows for the additional folds of the crimp to better flatten into place.

Slidehammer

Guest

Thanks Slide, I wondered about the skived and roll crimping.

I would never have enough patience to reload my target loads and roll crimp them.

One more roll crimp comment......

Using hulls which were previously crimped folded... (factory loads)

I have found it imperative to "iron" out all of the folded crimp memory that is possible to acheive the best roll crimps. I place the fired hull on a tight fitting heated mandrel and then roll them against a hard surface. Some even use an iron set on low! The difference between a great job and melting the plastic is narrow and something only learned by experience however!

Slidehammer

Member Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 1975

A question on roll crimping versus fold crimping. When fold crimping the actual pressure placed on the wad depends on how well we fold crimp, does the roll crimp put as much pressure on the new plastic wads? Also does this impact the performance then? Myself I like the looks of the roll crimp, but I prefer to roll crimp loads using fiber wads. Also I do this on once fired hulls where I cut the hull down removing the folds and the skiving.

Guest

SPR310,

I have always had the same concerns.

There isn't a big difference in roll crimping and fold crimping. In the few tests that I ran both fold and roll were consistent, with roll crimping showing a slightly higher pressure figure (under 500 PSI i.e insignificant). While roll crimps were as consistent as fold crimps, they were more time consuming to produce.

Yes the roll crimp will compress the plastic wad just like a fold crimp will.

While roll crimps do afford some advantages, for most situations fold crimping is the way to go. Folding crimping is easier, faster, will produce consistent shot to shot performance on par or exceding roll crimps, and you don't have to worry about a cardboard over shot card getting wet in bad weather.

Guest

Guest

LOL you are right about that.

Member Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 1975

I quess I've got a little of that nostalgia also. I remember when I was a kid al of those roll crimped paper shells. I stll have some of those roll crimped green slugs we used on deer. Got my first ducks with those remington-peters roll crimped paper hulls. My first slug gun was an old noble 16 gauge pump, which is still laying around someplace. My duck gun was a Sears 12 gauge pump. Probably $35.00 to $40.00 in both of them.

Member Joined: 27 Jun 2005 Posts: 1545 Location: Michigan

THanks to all . I was going to buy some hulls ,new and primed, mail order
the company listed skived and unskived at a difference in price. If I readthe
answer to my question correctiy unskived (cheaper hull) will work fine.

Thanks again,

Glenn

Joined: 08 Feb 2009 Posts: 1310 Location: Western WA

Glenn,
I use the Fiocchi skived hulls and they work great with either 6 or 8 pt crimps. The skiving is only about 1/8 in but it definitely helps seal the 8 pt crimp so that it almost looks airtight. It also helps the 6 pt but they don't look quite as nifty as the 8 pt. I would admit that the 6 pt crimps are more consistent than the 8 pt on the MEC 600 jr that I use.

Good Luck,

Brewster