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< 16ga. Ammunition & Reloading ~ Slit wads? |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 8:14 am
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Member
Joined: 24 May 2007
Posts: 39
Location: ChicagoLand
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I just saw a post refering to unslit wads. I have a case of the DR16 wads and noticed the four petals are connected. Is it a good idea to cut this connection between the petals? I'm assuming this would allow the wad to release the shot quicker and improve patterns.
JOHN |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 9:05 am
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Joined: 23 Jan 2008
Posts: 224
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I am interested in a response to this post as well, as I have recovered some of my shot DR16 wads to find that the petals either did not seperate at all, or only some of the petals seperated. |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 9:44 am
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Whether the wad petals on the DR16 wads separate or not should not effect anything. The only way to no for sure however is to pattern. The patterns will be very erratic if the wad is influencing the shot payload on muzzle exit.
I believe you that the connectors are remaining intact, but I am really surprised that they are.
Bowbuilder, what choke(s) are you using?
JoGoz, unslit wads are a completely different animal and are usually for steel or tungsten shot. There are a few factors involved in whether the wad will influence the patterns or not,
Porting, degree of choke, velocity and powder, for starters. You will need to pattern to know.
At any rate I have fired quite a number of the DR16 wads and at least for clay targets have not had a problem. |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 11:06 am
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Member
Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 6535
Location: massachusetts
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Pressures, shot setback, and muzzle exit velocies all can have an effect in this matter. Ultra mild, ultra low velocity loads might be a factor. If your loads are such, then cutting the connections with a sharp blade won't hurt and might help a bit. I like the petals to open fairly quickly so the wad gets evenly and guickly stripped from the shot swarm as the package exits the bore.
A fatter ram tube might help too, if the wads are being seated in a roomier hull mouth. I'd try wrapping around the end of the ram tube with a bit of duck tape to see if it helps to open the petals when they are seated. If it works, a bigger diameter tube might be the answer. |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 11:22 am
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Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2006
Posts: 241
Location: Bitterroots
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I always "snap" the stitches on any wad that has the petals stuck together. Does it help? Well, I don't think it hurts! I'm pretty fast at "popping" them to boot, so it doesn't slow me down much and I end up not having to think about them at launch....
I load a lot of Gualandi 1225's in 12 Ga. I picked these up fired at times with all or part of the stitches still intact....Sometimes I would get real smokeballs at Skeet even on Station 4 with skeet chokes! So I started "popping" the stitches and I have done it ever since. No more smokeballs either unless I use a fixed Modified choke on one of my oldies for hunting practice.
Slidehammer |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 1:32 pm
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Joined: 23 Jan 2008
Posts: 224
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DC37, I was using a full choke on that particular day. |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 1:50 pm
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Member
Joined: 07 Jan 2008
Posts: 348
Location: Missouri
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I picked up two of mine last week and only one petal was loose. I wondered about it then but haven't thought much about it since. |
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Posted:
Wed May 13, 2009 2:21 pm
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The only way you are going to tell if there is any effect with a particular gun, load and choke combination is to go out and punch some holes in the paper. I know it's drudgery but until you do you will never know no matter how many puff balls you make or how many targets you chip. There are just too many variables trying too judge how effective or ineffective your patterns are by shooting at a moving target. |
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