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do you average when using roll crimps on plastic hulls? I loaded a few today to try out as these were the first ever for me to roll crimp. The mouths looked like they were held over a torch for a second. A bit melted and edges rounded. They were the Win red game load hulls. They crimped nicely using my drill press, BP vise and Precision crimper. My load was Win 209, 17.5gr PB, BP/SPTG16 and 1oz shot for 1125fps @ 7600psi

Do some hulls hold up better for roll crimps than others?
Any info is appreciated.

Member Joined: 27 Jun 2005 Posts: 1545 Location: Michigan

Guest

I love to roll crimp paper hulls but I have had good results "conditioning" my roll crimped fired hulls by using one of my wife's discarded hair curling irons. The one I am using is Conair model CD12, a slightly larger one would work a bit better but with a bit of "twisting about" the 1/2 inch model will get the job done. The heat softens the plastic and allows you to open up the case mouth up to original diameter. The plastic remains ply able so recrimping is easier also.

Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1460 Location: Eagle, Nebraska

Great idea, now another reason for my wife to roll her eyes at me.

Curling iron......mmmmm now that sounds like a great idea Rolling Eyes

I put an old hair dryer in service to warm the plastic shells so they would roll better. I have tryed to roll crimp almost everything. Even tryed rolling all brass shells. That didn't work well. The plastic shells seem to take up a lot of time. If you go to fast, they look like they are trying to melt. Mostly do paper shells now. Besides paper shells smell so good after they have been shot. Okay, I am weird. If you are going to roll plastic shell, just go slow. Good luck

Guest

The idea isn't new. Years ago Lyman (I think) made an electrically heated mandrel for reconditioning paper hulls. I just tried their idea on plastic hulls and it worked. Say you don't think Lyman would still have a couple of those contraptions gathering dust in some store room somewhere do you?

Member Joined: 28 Oct 2005 Posts: 665 Location: Louisiana

I have one of those Lyman "Shell Conditioners".
The thing operates on 110vac, gets hot as the hinges of hell and will melt a plastic hull quicker'n you can say "S**t!" Shocked

Works OK on paper.
I saw a 'recipe' for a beeswax/parafin concoction to be used on paper hulls to restore the case mouths. Just as soon as those neurons fire again Crying or Very sad

I'll post it..................

Guest

Member Joined: 27 Jun 2005 Posts: 1545 Location: Michigan

Yes, Graf's has the Paper 16 gauge Cheddite hulls.
If you need some load data, shoot me an e-mail.
I had Tom A. test about 10 differnet loads for me.
asphaltdave@comcast.net

Guest

Guest

Guest

Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1460 Location: Eagle, Nebraska

Dave, you sent me a couple of paper hull loads once and have yet to load them, I have so many other projects going haven't had time to load any up yet.

I love any other paper data you have and am anxiously awaiting the Recipie for re-conditioning the hull mouths!!

I may load some up this weekend.

Member Joined: 27 Jun 2005 Posts: 1545 Location: Michigan

Twice Barrel,
I found in some cases, the the same load in a plastic Cheddite was real close to the same PSI & FPS in the paper Ched. hull. If roll crimped, it should be lower. Use this info as a starting guideline. Get your loads tested if working up new ones.

Hootch,
Shoot me an e-mail and I'll give you what I have.
asphaltdave@comcast.net

As for reconditioning the paper cheddite hulls, it's not required.
You will only get 3 to 4 reloads out of these hulls, before the paper burns through at the brass. In fact after the first loading, I wouldn't use these hulls in a Auto or Pump, because when the hull seperates from the brass, it stays in the chamber.