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They are all forms of lead alloy shot. Each has a different amount of antimony, and/or tin in the mix, depending on the desired grade of shot.

All modern small lead shot is made in a drop tower by a specific process that forms the right size globs of alloy and allows them to harden into spheres as the globs fall a specific distance through controlled temperature, cool air into a recovery tank of water. It is the cheapest and quickest way to produce shot. The method produces excellent results if it is controlled well.

Dead soft lead shot has no antimony in it, but does have a minor amount of tin. Pure lead does not form up into smooth round spheres very well. Tin helps the glob become round and smooth as it falls, but adds very little hardness to the pellet. Dead soft lead pellets tend to deform very easily and is dirty to handle as well. So the shot tends to become damaged during normal handling and shipment. I think this is why dead soft shot is no longer made by the bigger shot manufacturers.

Chilled shot has both tin and a very minor amount of antimony in it to help toughen the lead pellets up a bit. The alloy used still produces a somewhat soft pellet, but the shot is easier to handle, bag, and ship without damaging it.it is also much cleaner to handle.

Magnum or extra hard shot (same stuff) has a higher percentage of antimony in it. Antimony melts at a significantly higher temperature than lead, so it also hardens faster as the alloy cools. The antimony cools and becomes less dense which allows it to gravitate to the surface of the glob as it falls and hardens. This toughens the pellet by giving it a harder outer shell. The percentage of antimony in the alloy is reduced a bit for bigger pellets, because too much tends to crystalize too quickly on the surface of the glob and hampers the drop shot process. #7.5 and #8 shot have the highest percentage of antimony and also are the hardest pellets. This works out quite well, as these two sizes aee the most commonly used for trap shooting. They tend to produce the best patterns at the longer ranges the game is shot from.

Tin is used because it also melts at a slightly higher temperature than lead and is a bit harder as well but its very close in both respects. Tin is softer than antimony and also melts at a lower temperature as well. Tin adds to the surface tension of the glob in a way that helps it form up nice and smooth. This produces a pellet that is cleaner to handle. The tin also helps prevent the antimony and lead from seperating too quickly as the alloy glob cools as it falls. It prevents the antimony from crystyalizing too much on the surface of the pellet and helps the antimony to distribute itself more evenly on the pellet's surface.

Anyway, that is just about all I know about this matter. Hope the info helps you. Good luck with your reloading. 16GG.

Joined: 30 Aug 2007 Posts: 234 Location: KY

If a body was want to produce some of their very own lead shot how high a shot tower would one need to make inorder to get approx. 4-5-6-7 size shot? I recall seeing in a Backwoodsman someone making shot, but it was decidedly not round and was infact more tear dropped shaped bordering on slag. Even worse looking than Hevi-Shot. He claimed no less deadly however.

To be able to produce some 4 and 5 shot without having to buy a 25 lb bag would be nice.

My biggest concern would be melting the lead on the top of the house without burning a hole in the roof. Laughing

Wouldn't the range be a factor in the equation? It seems to me that dead soft shot might be useful for close range shooting in lower pressure, lower velocity loads. I've found that lighter than standard for gauge shot loads also have shorter shot columns. they often tend to produce higher core densities and less dense annular rings out at a given range. Set back damage also tends to be less if the pressure and velocity are moderate. I am theorizing that dead soft shot might help distribute the pattern more evenly at the closer ranges such a load is designed for. I've never had the opportunity to pattern or otherwise test any dead soft shot loads, so my theory is just that.

Your assumption that I've never patterned many shot loads is just that, and its wrong. I don't pattern loads much anymore. I've already developed enough useful load recipes over the years so it is not longer necessary for me to do so anymore. However, I'd be sure to if I were to work up a new load. That is common sense.

I'd also shoot test the load on targets before using it on game birds. I've found that patterning gives us only a narrow, one dimensional, and limited view of how well a load performs. Shot columns or strings are three dimensional and also involve the fourth dimension of time. Shoot testing loads at flying targets completes the picture. The observed results can overrule the information pattern testing provides.

I'd then go on to try the load on gamebirds under the conditions I'd expect to use it. How consistantly and how well the load kills the birds it is used on would be the deciding factor for me.

Guest

Slidehammer, thanks for the clarification! It's important for people to get accurate information.

Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 596 Location: 17603

"Are there manuals of any sort out there about reloading?"

jbiss,

Many manuals available, the usual recommendation is "Lyman Shotshell Handbook", the latest is the 5th Edition.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/48451-1.html

Lots of recipes, and step by step instructions on the theory and practice of reloading for shotguns. You can pick up a Lee Load-All for ~ $45 in 16ga and get started with another $60 worth of components. MEC is a much better machine,,,, costs a bit more for a Jr. GET a manual first!

Cheers,
R*2

GG,

I'd be pleased as punch if you did a comprehensive test of drop shot, chilled shot, and Magnum grade and post your findings with illustrations. It might be going over "old ground" again.... But it would be great to see a modern comparison with more modern ideas like shot column height as you mentioned... I'm serious, test and show us the pictures!

Slidehammer

Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 596 Location: 17603

http://www.cityofdubuque.org/index.aspx?NID=712
Very Happy

Guest

In my reading 100 feet or more is mentioned as the tower height so we are talking about a average 10 story building.

Joined: 30 Aug 2007 Posts: 234 Location: KY

When you say bigger, you do indeed mean bigger diameter shot and not larger number (6-7- Cool

don't you?

I would have thought just the opposite that the smaller the shot produced the taller the shot tower would need to be. Could the height of the shot tower be simulated in the way that indoor sky diving is simulated or would it just blow hot lead all over the place?

when I get home form work I will try to dig up the copy of Backwoodsman that has the shot making in it. I want to say he was getting roughly 2 up to B sized shot but they were not uniform or round.

Guest

It stands to reason that lager shot, BB, 2, 4 etc will cool slower because of the increased mass than smaller shot. 7 1/2, 8, or 9 and therefore would have to fall farther to form properly and solidify enough the retain it's shape when it lands in the water quench.

Joined: 20 Mar 2009 Posts: 428

That makes sense to me!